Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
That's prob why i though like i did before then. Shame group b isn't still rallying i do love the old school 6r4's,quattro's :).
So say if the op wanted a group a f4r what would the price be and bhp figures roughly?
Wow, surely this would cost in circa a few ££££ easy, power wise i'm not sure but would have a guest it'll be close to 230ish bhp without throttle bodies.
Intrested to what others say.
The auto wiper sensor (above the rear view mirror) shouldn't be disconnected when changing the windscreen, or else it will need to be programmed in again.
This is what i've been told anyway, you could always do a simple test and pour water over the sensor to see if it activates the wipers. If...
Have you got a link to what this spacer looks like?.
The space between the hub shaft and disc should have a collar/washer type to keep the bearing still so the disc rotates around that iirc.
I believe that the spacer should go behind the hub and not in front, all your doing if i understand right is pulling the disk out and not the whole thing.
Wow amazing work, have Pm'd you regarding some other stuff you might be interested in doing for my track car project. Glad i don't have to use rally weld all the time for my ally fab stuff now.
Being 2min from my garage is also handy :).
Just replace the VVT sensor 1st, it's on top of the rocker cover to the rear left. Although i'm not that clued up about these timing systems so not sure if you could get away without putting a new belt on.
Why not just use the ph2 shell and convert that to rhd if that's the desired look your after anyway?
As for the slam panel i think you'd have to cut the top inner arch legs off and join them there but the ph2 is shorter if my memory is right.
Another pic of the dash but drivers side with the mock up 4x lights/switch/circuit breaker panels fitted, the dash and console will be flocked and panels will be carbon fibre sheets, vinyl written with a coat of laquer over the top.
Will see what he suggests when it come to the time and also keep in mind who you said cheers chip.
Carbonraider
How have you got on with the rear diffuser now was also thinking of making my own or buying a mk2 focus RS one and fitting that but to be honest the 197 looks in portion with the clio...
Lol no that was my 1st attempt of spaying the cage in post #226 it's all been sanded down since then and re-sprayed after welding feet to the bottom.
Ah damn, I was always under the impression he did well it will be while before it needs doing so if your right then i'll have to look at where...
Yeah i did see something about a interface lead when i was doing some research, only thing that i had to do as i've removed the abs system was fit a "hall effect" speed sensor to the hub. But for the ecu and loom i'll prob leave all of that till last as i want fred@btm to map it and set it up as...
Cheers chip :)
As for the ecu i've decided to ditch the whole lot and use a omex 600 as a standalone, i'll keep some wires of the standard loom just to run the lights/wiper/water bottle/brake pot/fan and have them separate from the engine loom but for the engine side i'll be using a race loom...
Cheers guys glad you like how it's turning out :).
Daniel will upload some other pics of the dash for you mate.
Frenchthing thanks for the PM for the fuel tank location helped me out lots :).
Yes chip i'll be changing the wheels at a later date but at the moment it's not a priority got more...
Haven't updated this in some time and to be honest at one point in the project like all others i lost interest in it and didn't touch it for a few months, but at some point i managed to get the inspiration to work on it again so rather than me babbling on and on i'll let the pics do the talking.
I was pretty sure i read something with the ecu pins being different, I know it's a 182 setup to a 172 but assumed it would still be the same visa versa.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?611608-Will-a-ecu-uch-key-set-up-from-a-182-fit-a-172-cup&highlight=172+speedo+loom+fit+182
Oh yes just changing the loom over to a cup wouldn't work as the pin locations are different on the ecu/uch to a 182, however changing the ecu/uch and key over wouldn't that ecu setup be to a 172 so worse than a 182?
Yes the wiring is defiantly a nightmare, i made a in depth diagram of the standard electrics to re-locate the ecu/relays/fuses inside, but problem is some wires go into the ecu/uch/fuse/relays but not knowing what ecu/uch pins are for inside doesn't help. With this in mind i decided as i'm at...
Ain't yoy doing the lightweight thing also kelv?
I wanted mine lightweight but still road legal, so my options was keep it and have the heavy system or re-do the whole lot and remove some extra kg's.
In the end i decided bin the lot upgrade the master cylinder (806 van).
Run my own lines...
Can someone please help? i need full measurements of the ecu to make a bracket to mount onto the inner bulkhead but can't find anything.
What i need is width/height/depth and also distance from ports (both sides) to the top/bottom.
Thanks Damien
Not sure if you know but 1 earth strap is not just to control 1 item so putting a earth on the engine will not work in the same way, i've stripped the protective tape around the loom and traced wires that was not needed and a lot of things go to a join where others come into it and go elsewhere...
Good luck with what you are about to do i gave up and decided to bin the whole lot (interior/engine/ecu/uch) and go with a omex race loom instead,
the problem you face is that some of the wires go to the relay box but others come from the same relay to go elsewhere so acting as a loop.
Not to...
Thanks for the offer dude, atm i can't think of anything i need but you never know, but after a long long think along with a few headaches i've now decided i'm going to bin the std loom/ecu/uch.
And design my own loom inc switch/relay/circuit breaker panels and run a standalone ecu as it will...