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God I'd love to drive that track Looks awesome. Car seems to be performing a treat too :)

Havent you got a Ktec turbo kit? And don't they supply a (cougholdcough) T25 or T28 journal bearing? Surely if you really want less lag, get a PROPER turbo manifold made up and a ball-bearing GT series turbo. f**k-it, Go VNT if you really want a challenge. :D

Don't blame you mate! these upgraded rears have been a quite a bit of hassle!

gutted. Have you got a bias valve to try and sort the brake bias out? With the extra mechanical advantage of the 265mm discs your going to want something surely?

Wastegates never really make any noise. The "chatter" thing you can hear happens as a result of having no DV.

Turbos must have wastegates so that the amount of boost pressure delivered can be controlled. If the wastegate is open it allows exhaust gas to bypass the turbine (hot side of the turbo) thus reducing the turbo speed. There are internal wastegates (built into turbo with an external actuator) and...

cummon, your having a larf! It'd be a really good crack this lil 5. But why must people lie so so hard about figures?? :dapprove: N0rm, I am right in saying that it's the only conversion mounted on the subframe right?

Really really love this.

ditch it and get something that that is fed cold air.

Saw this at RWS. Impressive. The only renault conversion to be mounted on the subframe as far as I am aware. Edit: Oh and the figures are ridiculous. 320bhp from a K04 and stock manifold PSML!! the other 300bhp figure is also surely too much for that setup. 285-290 tops tbh.

if it actually sounds very diesel it's very likely to be a dephaser

try it, I reckon it'll fit. The worst that'll happen is you'll need a custom mani and downpipe. The engine bays are surprisingly similar.

inbetween the YOUTUBE links just put the bit of the link that is after "V="

Says the instructor :rasp:

Without spending A LOT, you don't get far on a 1*2. You can go for matched inlets and a Decat. Then go for an RStuner remap on top of that. Nout wrong with the airbox, go for a samco bend but leave the airbox unless you want more noise. Bodies, turbos, etc etc. You have to ask if it's really...

That said Fred, renault designed a comfortable car. That includes NVH standards. Many owners on this forum (me included) are not looking for such a comfortable drive and would rather the car feel 'more together' or whatever. I think uprated mounts are a good way to start.

can't beleive no-one mentioned GUNK. Top stuff :D

hubcentric are essential. They mount on the centre-bore of the hub, then the wheel mounts on the centre bore of the spacer. if you don't have the centre bore, then the wheel will bolt on just off centre and VIBRATE really badly. It's a wonder they are allowed to be sold tbh.

car is mint. But I'm not going to leave the wheels alone! not for me at all. OZ 16" are the nuts

I wouldnt say that new box oil will solve the crunchy box, but it's worth a try before a new box. Engine mounts are soft from new. Go for a powerflex dogbone, and Kangoo diesel upper O/S mount and a new N/S mount. There is a 4th mount (lower gearbox>subframe) btw

Williams with ABS eh, noice. Dude, you've painted the fooking disc surface!! why

women, know your limits.

it just upsets your fuelling mate. Bin it.

major? you mean cambelt right? If it aint broke, don't fix it. If your really worried buy a new coilpack and leave it in the boot with a couple of spanners. They normally go gradually (cutting out here and there and running badly) before complete failure.

So we are talking a 197 here? No need to replace the wishbone itself (it's just a solid peice of metal), i'd be 90% sure that 197 wishbones are unique to 197s, may be worth changing the ball joint but IMO you'd be wasting your cash unless it's already damaged. Be warned the bushes can be a...

awesome

hold out. It's not like the M is a bad runaround ;)

the scuttle panel being the bit below the windscreen. The drain holes are left and right also in the centre( on the MK1 not sure about MK2s)

they still £180>190 a corner?

Use a trolley jack under the engine and make sure it grips the sump well. If it slips off the jack you'll need engine bay repairs that are really really going to cost.