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Sounds like you've either disturbed the routing of your accelerator cable so its sticking (could try squirting some wd40 or similiar down the cable) or haven't put something back properly so have a small air leak.
Mine used to do this was surprising how loud it was! The cause of mine was the main mount on the left of your engine as you're looking at it. It had split in half so technically wasnt doing anything lol!
bought my dogbone from them, its been fine. Had it on over a year/10k miles no sign of wear. It was *exactly* the same as the renault one i took off.
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I cant really remember the one around 5.2k as you can appreciate I didnt spend that much time at those kind of revs cos it was running like a pig.
Other symptoms - the engine juddered around when idling. (Couldnt get it to idle for ages but found there to be a big air leak out of my brake servo...
Oh right :/ My car is a scenic though (172 lump) I think i may be able to get at the manifold bolts from above (can easily see the manifold from the engine bay)
My manifold needs to come off as i want to wrap it but im considering buying another and wrapping that and then going to kwik fit and...
Sounds like you've not put something back properly and have a small air leak. Take it apart and put it back together again, pay particular attention to the oval gasked at the bottom of the inlet.
I've got to take my decat off in the very near future and replace it with the cat for mot time... Not looking forward to it, everyone on here seems to say its really awkward.
Would it be easier if i take the manifold off too or do i have to take the decat off to be able to take the manifold off?
I've got graphs for when mine was mis timed and for when it was timed properly afterwards.. they're both lumpy but the mistimed version just emphasised the bumps more.. only difference being that in the mistimed graph there was a fairly big dip at around 5.2krpm (torque)
I'd guess it was temperature related. Your thermostat is probably staying open too long and causing over cooling. You will hit the rev limiter earlier if your coolant temp is less than 75c. Mine was doing this even after driving for over an hour so I changed the stat and now it's fine. They're...
Nope, you can pull the two camshaft oil seals off (the black caps on the right hand side of your engine as you're looking at it) and see if they're both at the same angle. Obv you wont know if the engine is at tdc but you'll be able to see if they correspond with each other. to check its at tdc...
hmm, a quick check on a motor factors website shows me that fronts are available for £18 and rears for £30 (wtf?!) so thats not too much of a great deal, cos even with fast road driving i'd expect ~20k from a set of fronts and at least double from the rears... I think it'd be hard to get it to...
I'd go for dirty injectors or a dirty fuel filter, change the fuel filter and use a few tanks of v-power and maybe some injector cleaner.
May as well give your TB a clean too, dirty TB's can cause a few problems.
Also interested in this as i've got 300v for my next oil change (though I have just done one and used silkolene pro s so I cant tell you my experience with 300v yet)
Technically the 300v should last longer cos it says it suffers 0% shear loss which means it stays in grade so wont thin and burn...
~Piccy of hose~
That is a breather and there is meant to be a pipe connected to that which connects it to the carbon canister, which on a mk2 ph1 is just above the offside wheel arch.