Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
I am fed up chasing perfect green type D coolant on all my cars, this has sealed it! I'm moving over to cheap trade red now! cheap as chips in 25 litres!
remove the top engine stabiliser and see if it disappears (you will have a bit more engine movement, but its still fully secure) I've had so many knocks and bangs come from this even when it looks new and doesn't appear to have any excess play.
the mk3 isn't a bad car to do a clutch on as you get plenty access when everything's off - the dci 106 6 speed is a fairly big box which makes doing it on your own on the deck a bit of a s**t job!
For me, just use a recommended well regarded garage if your worried, ask them for a good quality...
My ph1 was difference in the sense that I fitted a new engine, gearbox and ECU (to match the engine) and it just fired straight up on the original UCH/key - That is not what the internet told me would happen, I advised someone else doing an engine conversion and they had the same result!
my 1.2 Sport had orange stuff in it when i got it, i flushed it all out, new water pump, expansion bottle, new radiator, flushed out the matrix etc, filled it with fresh type D, few heat cylces later its got an orange tinge to it, drained it all again, flushed it all again, another 5l of fresh...
If, going by Mick's advice above, I can't see that being an issue as n3 were for high spec cars, which a 1.2 8v won't be so it should be fine.
However a 2000 will be a ph1 car? Is that what your replacements are from?
I'm not sure if it was just a production issue or if it is being phased out, it was back order last time I tried to get some from Arnold Clark, seems to be back though!
@aldo_87 got febi bilstein stuff that was the correct colour
I dont like a website using a .co.uk domain when they are in the Republic, so i just sent my personal details via email to someone.... okkkay
For anyone worried, Fancyplates has been the go to place for plates for the last 21 years on here!
Fresh battery, fit a jump lead from the neg Terminal to a good bit of chassis metal to create a new earth and rule out the gearbox earth strap and go from there
The same 4wd system was used in the scenic with an f4r, albeit the 138hp version, so the engine should bolt to it with little issue.
However it's a weak system and If your going to all the hassle of fitting the rear subframe to the Clio which won't be easy, you may as well use something better...
Autosmart G101 all purpose cleaner to scrub them
Autosmart Tardis to remove the tar - took 3 or 4 go's
stuck a coat of Infinity wax synergy ceramic on them as I had some left, would probably use qtechniq c4 next time (probably wont be a next time as im too busy taking the engine in and out on...
is the bolt on the lower arm (the front one, not the rear that goes upwards) in the correct way, I recall coming across this before and someone had put the bolt in back to front and I'm sure it butts up against something so isn't fully tight when it feels tight!
nope no docs, super fast turnaround too, i just use the show plate configurator and go standard font etc so its doesn't have any of the markings etc required on a uk plate, and then a slightly smaller front one to fit the recess on the mk2
You remove the full gloss black dash surround that surrounds the screen etc, and then you can remove the vents from that to replace if required, given its a 2015 though you could always get a ph2 2017> one for the nicer vent surround!
just need to make sure you get a climate control one, not a...