Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Yea does seem weird. I just use them the exact same I do with the larger Hex pads/
This backing plate: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=66
OT, just bought some Raceglaze Alcantara cleaner for my Recaro's. Haven't been cleaned in a long while and looking a bit sorry...
Does anyone have any recommendations for small spot pads, for use with DA and Rotary?
I did have black/white/green 4" Hex logic pads, but they've all completely torn apart around the edges after very little use, and I don't mean a little, they've completely ripped away from the velcro pretty...
Got on much better polishing wise today, was just practice and getting the knack of controlling it on uneven surfaces.
Pretty sure it was just too much polish as to why it spat everywhere.
I would say for a beginner, having used both, DA is much easier to start with.
Thanks for the tips guys, I have been practising on my spare bonnet, and getting good results with that, just wanted to try on a non horizontal surface - completely different ball game. I'll have another go today...
Crumbs ^
I was playing around with my EP801 rotary today. I tried it on a door (actually on a car)
and the moment I started it up it spat polish literally everywhere. All over the bonnet :(
I thought maybe it was because I didn't have the pad flat flush on the door, but couldn't seem to work it...
You did say rear clusters yea?
The earth for the rear clusters is inside the boot just underneath where the loom passes through the hole to the rear cluster. Small bolt.
Right.
Today whipped the throttle body off, cleaned it with carb cleaner, was nice and shiny.
Felt smoother to drive then about ten mins up the road did it again. Now found out it does still drive, but won't go above like 30mph.
Tried pluggin in my RStuner, thinking you didn't need a license...
Black things on the sills? If its what I think you're talking about its just the lower mounting point for the seatbelt, Its just a weird shape bit of metal tube. Unscrew the torx bolt and it just comes out and the belt slides off it.
You can buy eye bolts in M10 anyway so no need to rethread them.
Its more the length that is the issue. The existing M10 bolt that goes through the pretensioner is ~ 35mm length, and the other lower mount for the seatbelt on the side is ~ 40mm thread length.
I can only find Eyebolts in M10 size...
lool. Okay, cheers!
I can plug in my RStuner to read the code, but the chance of me understanding what the code is actually telling me are quite low tbh lol!
How easy is it to clean the throttle body on mk2 ph2 1.2 8v's?
Fantastic, I think you've just saved me a lot of hassle!
What's the difference between the one you linked and the kit? Do you need all the washers (I'll be using existing torx bolts) ?
Jekyll that's exactly what I was planning on doing, retaining existing seatbelts so I've got the option of both, but I've got harnesses which are the clip on type rather than bolt on, so need eye bolts. Unfortunately the side mounting points are not UNF size, they're M10 bolts, so getting hold...
You can get harnesses with a buckle in the back strap.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/harnesses/sabelt-3-point-double-release-harness-with-free-harness-pads
I'm planning on fitting them whilst keeping the existing belts in the front, so if I ever needed the rear seats, I can just...
I had this, a small silver metal piece had broken inside the runner, meaning it would just jam if moved back past a certain point.
A few have had this issue iirc.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?659704-Seat-Rail-with-a-difference&p=8963688#post8963688
How does that work exactly? Do you just use the existing bolt that held the pretensioner on through the smaller hole then clip the harness onto the bigger hole?