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I have problems where It'll play for ~ hour, then pause, buffer for like ten mins, say cache full before it could finish, continues playing for about two mins, then buffers again for ten mins, says cache full again, then continues playing for about two mins and so on and so on...
Ideally want Hubcentric mate. 5mm you'll be alright, but 10mm you'll need longer bolts, and you won't be able to get hubcentric.
(hubcentric spacers have a lip for the wheel to sit on, so all the wait is not simply on the bolts)
My brother has an old mini, and the (non amped) speakers are making a popping sound when the engine is on (only) , sounds like interference, so wondering if this was similar?
I tried earthing the head unit in a different place but still the same.
Sorry for thread hijak!
Ah cheers MT, good stuff. I'm guessing this is the most common cause for noise distortion in speakers?
What about if speakers aren't amped? Is it a poor earth on the headunit?
Definitely get a different splitter on there. Makes the front look so much nicer than that standard awful splitter.
I had a fat megane one on mine, but like you said Skoda probably would look as good.
Spanish - be aware in John's guide he shows removing the seat from the runners, leaving the existing runners in place.
If you are simply swapping non sport and sport seats, you don't need to do any of that for the front seats, just remove the 4 nuts from underneath the car.
Have a search for Rokkor/Raceland Coilovers on here mate.
Huuge thread about these so called budget budget coilovers (essentially all practically the same, rebranded under various names)
General consensus seems to be yes for low, no for go.
But would be fine on a non sport I'd imagine. Just...
When I did it in my old non sport, I threaded new cable through. Not like that though.
You can do it chopping into the existing loom. I'm not entirely sure, but I think the OEM tweeters have a built in crossover type thing, possibly just a resistor.
I'm pretty sure the standard tweeters are...
I've only just started out really, so at the moment only by hand, recently Clayed / SRP/ EGP / Megs #16 wax, about a month ago.
Been washed a few times since, and do top up the wax every few washes
It does come off with shampoo, Its just if it doesn't come off when blasted with the hose, I'm...
Is it the similar process with that, not to be used every wash?
Trouble is sometimes if I don't get a chance to wash again for a while, after polishing/sealing/waxing, I get a lot of dirt/tar at the bottom of the doors, but unsure if I use de tar this'll strip all my wax etc?
Sorry for the silly question, but say you'd waxed your car, then the next wash used iron-x, will it remove all the wax/polish etc you previously did?
Dave have you got a link to the Iron X you all use?
Haha know the feeling.
Easier to do the fronts if you jack the car up at the front. Or drive it up those metal car ramps.
The bolts to undo the fronts are easy.
The isofix bar bolts also have torx heads, but use a socket instead, much easier, 17mm iirc.
I'd say the only thing that potential...
It's easy mate.
The airbag connectors on the front seats you'll have more problems with.
Front seats:
Literally 4 nuts underneath the car per seat (one on each corner of the runners) (13mm iirc) Two are under rubber cover things, on the outside edges of the car, you'll easily spot them.
The...