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I'd check under the seat. My old non sport had cloth seats similar to a cup and no airbags, and I had problems with the light and it was the connectors under the seat.
The round one is Aerial.
Small yellow one will be stalk/display.
Other two larger rectangle ones (ISO connector), one will be speaker half of ISO block, other will be the power half of the ISO block
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They're well easy to change, yes on a non sport its the...
Don't spray to close to the object. Sweep or 'brush' along it rather than aiming at just one area.
Just to prevent any thick build up that could cause run lines.
Test spray the nozzle away from the object before moving over to it. Get an idea of how the paint is coming out the can etc.
Ah balls. Got a bit excited it was me then lol, I was in Tunbridge Wells today!
Mine's standard though lol. So definitely wasn't me.
Edit: and just noticed it was an arctic and mines an RB. Fail. I'll get my coat. :o
I did 15 mins between each coat, then waited like an hour/two hours between different layers. Was a hot day though.
Did that on my alloys about a year ago. Still clean up perfectly.
I'd be very interested to see the difference too. I'm in the same situation re lowering my 182 cup pack lol.
very Nice wheels though, Andy. Love to see it once they're on :)
Tbh I think most people are referring to it scraping on speed bumps and such like, but your saying it only scraped when you cornered heavily on a roundabout?
You must've had a hell of a lot of body roll lol.
Edit: just wanted to check. Torque value for rear discs (big nut) On Fubar's guide it says 172Nm +/- 10%, But I spotted a thread in which Fred said 265nm?
How do you actually get the old pads out lol?
I've removed the long wire clips on top of each pad, and then the tiny little wire clip thing on the bit of metal on one end of the caliper?