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Funnily enough, I've been offered a GTX35 (but don't know the full spec) quite well priced. So really stuck with what to do. It's on a vband housing too which suits me better
So with the ph1 dying of rust, I collected this shell:
Porkies old cup, complete with safety devices full cage.
This thread will be a build log more than a thread.
Slowly things are coming together for the engine build, things have been turning up slowly, but surely.
Spec will be based...
I don't even tout for business now, I've no need.
But anyway, I've given advice on what to check, if you choose to ignore, that's your choice. im far too busy to spend hours giving tech support all day every day, let alone going through all the guides to correct them. On that note, I'm out.
You implied that if he uses them, he believes they are as good as the Renault ones is what I was getting at. They simply aren't.
Several people who have pointed towards the guide, yet none of them do these day in day out? Again, up to you who you want to believe.
I'll have a look at the guide...
The tool is required all the time, as said above, you rotate the whole belt and pulleys with the cams and crank locked.
Just because he believes the AST ones are as good, they aren't. You look at any reputable specialist, we all use genuine Renault tools for a reason. You do the pulleys up...
What about the pulley locking tool? Was the timing mark visible in the bell housing? Were they genuine Renault tools or the laser/AST equivalent?
What spark plugs are you running?
Also, it's only ~£45 for the plugs from Renault Wolverhampton.
The guide on the forum is incorrect for many reasons.
It can quite easily be timing, misfire at low revs is quite often a sign.
Back to basics.
Spark?
Fuel?
Compression?
The head will be in capable hands. Reason for VVT Delete is due to the oil pressure issues it can cause, which was one of the failing points of the last engine (it DID NOT soley cause it)