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Did you buy a new sender or a second hand one?

I looked into it a few years back. Just to get insurance cover would have put the hourly rate at £12 an hour. Plus the ramp/electric etc.

All you need is ign live. Get a multimeter on it, see if it's got a 12v feed.

Was it a genuine shaft?

It'll be fine. Just slightly higher geared (200rpm difference at 70 in 5th)

Did the small plug have voltage?

Interesting. I've not had one in to go from. Stock cal looks appalling!

It is. £45 posted.

I've got a cat with the internals missing if that's of interest.

Check the other (exciter) wire going in has a 12v feed.

They're shite. Welds crack, runners crack, flanges aren't flat, the link pipe puts the exhaust against the body, or on the floor. The manifold itself hits the subframe.

Don't fit it.

Does it look like this: Or this:

Did you buy a genuine one or the cheap and nasty toyosport item?

I'd want to check the timing is ok first. I can't see Renault running them that rich to start with, so it's more a question of why. Has a sensor gone down? Is the timing correct? Is the air inlet tract free of any restriction? Is the air filter clean?

I was flowing 270 odd bhp through it when it was supercharged. Standard manifold isn't a restriction.

Poor pics, but looks like there is a crack/hole in the diff casing inside the bell housing.

That's very rich top end. Infact, it's sweet spot is 4500-4900rpm, then it goes too rich. Christ, that's running richer than I mapped my supercharged one lol

Sounds like that alternator is a dud.

You'll need to code the new injector yes. But IMO I'd replace the 4, as generally once one has gone the others won't be far behind.

This.

IMO they're cheap for a reason. Take them as a show cage.

The rear discs have abs rings too if you buy them from Renault. Yes the shafts have abs rings.

You're thinking of when they're fitted to the rs2. When fitted to a stock inlet like Vikki's, here has gained about 5lb-ft across the range. The graphs are almost identical. But higher up the graph, and the power doesn't tail off.

It's usually the pressure regulator in the tank.

They work well IMO. It's one of my favourite setups. But bare in mind they aren't time up normally. Only a handful of people are in the knowledge of how to do them properly.

Lever bar on the floor pan to line it up on the bolt holes and do it up.

Try turning the ign on for 5 sec, then off, the. Try and start. Let me know the result.

Esp would've saved that miles before it got out of hand.

That's correct. 100% that's knackered rings/ring lands.