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I think you have to let go of the "noise" thing when you want the real benefit of your Schricks.. I have a centre silencer and it sounds loud inside the car but on the outside it's quite okay ! Yozza or pure motorsport will be the ones from whom i'll choose my next exhaust from...

99% of the dirt in the pics is because of the oil-breather still being connected... disconnect this (buy one of those little filter-thingy's, stick it on the tube+let it vent to atmosphere) and your TB will stay squeaky-clean

^^^ dug up an old thread: My bonnet insulation has come loose a bit on top and is laying on my coil pack/leads and it looks like the leads have started to melt !!? where it touches.. Anybody know if removing the insulation will in time/eventually damage the paint job of the bonnet ? Because...

not C&B . ..not schricks either. Regrinds / Kent cams (or was it piper) ? maybe ?

Sounds silly éh , these bar/pub-horsepower claims ! :eek: My car (engine) has been rebuilt. A Ph1 engine was overhauled and i threw in some Schricks. Henk did the mapping. The high outcome also put me in a kind of disbelief. Afterwards I emailed Henk to ask if he was sure on these figures...

my former engine (RIP) was exactly like you stated ; pushed hard from new and made 195 with cams on honest rollers. It went like a train, very loose engine i guess. Was on 120,000 km before it had a mishap. I'm wishing to give her the same treatment (except for the mishap that is ..)

Hard or gentle ? I had instructions not to take it over 5000 rpm for the first 1000+ km's , and i stuck to it (as hard as that is..) . I did however let the engine really work hard up to these 5000rpm , on every level. Very fluctuating rpm's, pushing it hard through different rev ranges...

^ thanks , actually yeah i've come across his name a couple of times searching the 9 pages haha ! But i'm wanting to order in Holland so i don't think there's an advantage to be had here , with shipping + all.

Just searched through all 9 pages , back to 2009, No luck on genuine part no's for the shafts .. :dead: Can someone help me on the part numbers , pretty please ? Thanks guys

Ive tried many many setups… and guess what, the paper filter won :star: Engine seemed less torque-y with the foam ones , the tad little resistance of the paper one felt better on the throttle response (must not forget to mention that it's a V6 box) and oh yeah; they FILTER better

My TB has been buzzing for as long as i can remember ? Or at least something is buzzing under the hood... coming from the throttle body area

^^ the above and very much so : weight saving. strip it! I have managed to lose about 50kg by replacing the exhaust, taking out the back seats + replacing the front seats with 6 kilo Sparco's , big placebo effect maybe but the car feels much more nippy with every kilo lost

Sound. Thanks Fred

new OEM one put on ? or a refurbed one ? (as these refurbed ones seem to cause problems)

^^ dug up this ol' thread : My engine was rebuilt ; the mech said it would be wise to re-torque the headbolts after a couple thousand kilometers of driving/breaking her in. Now i also read here + there that these F4R engine headbolts do'nt need re-torqueing . Do or don't ?

9 cm deep dish steeringwheel FTW !!! Loving it as i'm bloody tall with the seat far back as can be, excellent mod

lifters are generally left alone, unless they're broken. But genuine Renault lifters will cost you somewhere around 30 a piece , well around 40 to 50 euro's over here anyway. (over here being Holland)

Yeecup , mine is being fitted with these as we speak. I'm hoping these will do just as good as the cams i was running before which were Colombo&Bariani's. Profile is a little different to these so the car will need mapping at some time. This will be done by Henk Fastchip but need to wait for...

phew ! Good to hear because i'm skint.. last $$ spent on conversion and new Schricks on ze way! ​cheers

does it come with the "clutch pin" ? I want to ditch my short one as it's a synchro destroyer but can't remeber where my original one is :(

great vids, i'm totally convinced ! looks a excellent piece of kit , WANT !!!

^^ This thread suddenly got me worrying! I'm in the middle of changing the (ruined)engine on my 172Cup to a Ph1 lump. Will this Ph1 engine run/fit on my 172Cup gearbox ? :eek:

vid from inside would even be better ;)

Ok.. I could'nt get a better deal than 23 euros a piece over here, exhaust ones came around 26. The op is right when looking at his ITB plans and track + all :) I was interested as well in these..

why the supertech $$$ ones may i ask ? Are you running high rpm's?

OOps i do'nt think you can change/swap them around ! (I may be wrong) but there was a significant pricedifference between the first and second one when i went to Renault when having probs with my first lambda. First lambda is involved with the AFR which is important for cars' mixture and the...

^^great! Thanks guys.

:bump:

^^ Forgot about that ! ​hm i wonder how these larger ports will function with my 182 exhaustmani .

As my engine is even more damaged as we thought before, we're about to put in a completely overhauled Ph1 engine. I'm wanting to go the Schrick route on this engine. @ Fred , Danny ; how will these cams perform on the Ph1 ? Actually when comparing Ph1 + Ph2 engines; are there ANY differences...