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Yeh fraid so, will be about £120 for the card and the emergency key bit to be ordered from france then an hours labour for the 5 min job of coding the key to the car. b******s, but they've got you over a barrel.
Its neither a resistor pack or a rheostat, CC equipped cars use PWM to control the fan speed. Its around 100 sheets from renault so that sounds about right.
Time to get your hand in your pocket i'm afriad!
Re: *Birmingham lot - Sunday 20th Dec Photoshoot *
1. Reyes
2. Brown Bear
3. bmh.01
I'll have a trip along assuming nothing comes up involving beer and lots of it. Need some decent pics of the bus tbh.
How do you get that metal block off as I can't get a tool in the holes at the front to undo the 3 bolts e.g. this is one of the holes below
10 or 13mm socket (i can't remember it varies between rs's and cooking models) on a 3" extension up the two lefthand holes to get the nuts off.
then i...
Quite a few peeps seem to have removed them for xyz reasons and i'd say its best left on imo. Its gotta come off to get the oil filter off without seriously struggling like you do with the meg and the inlet fanimolds in the same place and obviously not so easily removable :mad:
If you have a front end shunt it won't break the plastic fuel rail and spray petrol everywhere. So personally i'm under the opinion its best to leave it on :o.
Can do either tbh whatevers easiest, you'll be surprised how long it'll run without the pump running if its primed recently. So deffo try starting it 3 or 4 times after it cuts out the first time.
Yes you can see the injector connectors easily once the fuel rail guards off.
Disconnect the fuel pump and start the car a few times until it won't start to depressurise the rail would be a good idea to start with unless you've got a petrol bathing fetish or something.
Nope they come from the factory like that 110%, but as said some have it some don't feck knows why. Dent wouldn't be as well formed from the arb it'd be more localised, I would imagine they've been heated then deformed.
Might be putting a short onto something that doesn't like it and dragging an ecu voltage down hence it not starting. As the actual switch input "doesn't" do anything apparently.
I'd go for changing the pressure switch itself as previously mentions as i'd imagine its leaking through it as said...
I've done a ktec one, seemed alright tbh. Nothing major to fit really, gave a nice feel tbh but you'll need to get careful with it or its got bollocksed gearbox written all over it. As long as your steady with it and don't rush the box I can't see a problem with it really.
Mines got a bit of darth vader to it with a milltek on it, not tdk level granted but its there. Just wish it was a bit lounder really :dapprove:.
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Got one from maplins for my old tv which only had 1 hdmi port on it, payed £40 for it and it performed flawlessly for the year or so I used it. Did what it said on the tin.
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=375&item=95
Thats what I use, find the halfrauds chain strips to just crush the filter if someones wanged it on toit. That'll get owt off with a decent size 1/2" ratchet. And you can get a spanner on it if access is low (as i have to do for the meggy).
Thrash the original push fit bush out with a hammer then squeeze the two poly sections in with a vice then force the metal tube through. Use plenty of the included coppaslip but don't go mad
Whilst the side profile and rear are an improvement, I just don't feel the front seperates it from a normal cooking model enough like it did with the 1*2 and 197.