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Personally I think the standard 172 mounts are more than good enough tbh, and afaik my 53 plate still had the original set in and it was fine.

Renault personally, not a great fan of these uprated engine mounts. Can't help but think the oem items are soft for a reason, and the cabin vibration drives me up the wall in an everyday car.

On the hard shoulder! :eek: No idea what had happened, went past it on the opposite side going towards cov. Had carbon sidepods and no one was sat in it, looked intact so someone had the pleasure of a breakdown?

No that isn't the locking nut key.

Yes they want to be clean. Run a bead round the edges to seal and let the seperator cover squish it out.

And that changes the strengh of the box on a whole how? The gearset/bearings and general design just isn't up to the job/intended to withstand turbo levels of torque, theres a reason they use the ND0 box on the "proper" F4RT lumps. The design is antique and wasn't really designed to run...

Can't see a JB/JC box lasting very long on a decent F4RT lump tbh.

Needs lowering a fair bit on 15s really but they suit the car imo.

My 225 hasn't got a gasket on it and was/is silicone sealed, the 172 was the same afaik.

The relays always click, does it with the lights too.

The ones on the ramp are brilliant! All wallpaper material for sure.

More thinking about between the thread and the collar but good point all the same.

Ph2 is 100% a paper element in a plastic housing, unsure on the Ph3 off the top of my head.

Once/if you do free them off coppaslip the threads and locking collars after

As said thats the right one for a D4F lump, keep the plastic housing and just change the paper element. When you get one from renault you get the whole thing though including a housing.

The magnex I had on my 172 was a loud as i'd want to go, loudness isn't really the issue imo its more how much it drones at cruising speed imo. The milltek on the 225 is only a gnats bollock louder at 70 than the standard one was which is nice.

Indeed, even thoght about it first before I wrote it too :o.

5w50 still should be the same viscosity when warm as 5w40, just it'll be thinner when cold.

What he said.

snore, i'd rather a mondeo tbh.

No shouldn't be doing that, does the temp gauge rise to the middle position when warmed? The coolant temp sensors are a common thing and would explain the limiter as coolant temp below 85c enables the lower limiter.

I've had zero problems starting from afresh with it really, although not a mega high load application.

If they're permanently on not just the auto UCH faults have been known to stick the lights on all the time.

Get them complete and don't be a pikey. Far too much hassle and chance of breaking them.

You big girl :rasp:, to be fair though a standard one absolutely cries out for the next cog towards 7krpm.

Needs more fans.

Well its either going to be the coil or the injector for that pot. Can you see which cylinder is missing?

I'd go with a bearing in the box starting to fail, obviously currently only does it under load obviously. I'd stick with it for the time behind but be prepared to get a new box for it, how loud is it now?

Don't worry about the leveling and washers just change them for the MOT if you don't want to chance it, you need a higher version of UCH to control the auto leveling or the washers (can't remember which) which your cup won't have so no point faffing with it. Couldn't do either without access to...

Agree there, mine was loads better on the super t's I had compared to standard 16s.