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Hi Steve I'm trying to get my head around all these rear abs sensor part numbers. By nipping it in the bud do you mean that its not true that 182 cup and not cup cars don't use the same sensor? I've been reading about this for the last 2 days and can't find a definitive answer on the part...

Is this likely to fit, it seems to match the OE rear right part number https://m.onlinecarparts.co.uk/triscan-7659429.html

Any ideas what people with a 172 phase 2 can do in this situation if the ktec ones only fit a 182 cup?

Well update. Just been out with the voltmeter. Both rear sensor are getting 4.7v at the rear connectors so the connectors must be good up to there. So i checked both sensors resistance, one reads 1000ohm, the other reads open circuit, so I recon that's the culprit. How can it give a reading...

Found it. Looks fine, disconnected it, no corrosion on any of the pins. (Why are there 8 pins when there's only 2 wires per rear abs sensor)

Might sound thick, but by A frame I take it you mean the A shaped thing attached to the back of the subframe? Does this need to come off to get to said wiring plug?

Hi guys. Wondering if anybody can help with my abs fault before I have to give in and pay somebody to plug it in and get a code. Abs light comes on at startup and doesn't go out, can also feel the pedal pulsing when braking. So fault finding up to now.. I disconnected the rear sensors at the...

Rear springs and shock ok? Unless your running coilovers you shouldn't have scrubbing issues

No need. Phase 1 stalk uses existing connectors and the horn just works lol. The 2 spade connectors on the stalk are for the horn. The grey plug which was the horn plug on the wheel becomes redundant. I couldnt get my head around why there were 2 lots of wiring for the horn, but it helps...

I think you might be right! Thanks alot mate.

Having had a little read and from past experience the RTX ones are no good. Are lucas any better? Or is it a genuine only job? Even the ones Renault sell are refurbs but it doesn't say what brand.

Chuffing alternator just shat itself so need one asap. Do either of the 2 options on eurocar parts fit a 172 with ac or am I going to have the same issue I had trying to get their handbrake cables to fit?

If you gunned up the top cap and the car wasn't on the ground there's a good chance you could have moved the spring out of the top seat. I made that mistake once.

Yep, depending on where you park in relation to the sun. Did mine last summer, they were shitty again by autumn. I even used the meguiars UV protectant on them. The only way to get a longer lasting refurb is to relaquer them with a good quality 2k clear coat but I just wanted a quick fix...

Spend plenty of time on each grit after the 600 grit to get as many of the scratches out as you can and then start buffing with the drill. I used the plasticx stuff that came in the box, then used meguiars ultimate compound, then super resin polish and then finished off with a couple of layers...

I used the meguiars kit, they came up perfect However I did start with 600, 1200, then onto the pads which came in the kit which started at 1800 i think. Then buffed with the mop head thing on the drill.

Not much use I know but if the blower definatly works when bridging the pins and the resistor pack is known working then I can only assume it's not getting a signal from the heater control panel. Either due to a faulty panel or a broken wire between it and the resistor. Got any mates with a...

Not sure, I've never tried to get mine off. If you have a look on pure motorsport website they have a guide to go with their AC delete kit, should have all the info you need in it.

Bumper,slam panel and headlight out gives you much more room to play with

Just got in the car and put the wipers on, they hardly moved and then popped the fuse. So i this time I gave them a helping hand so the fuse didn't pop and they slowly started to get a bit better but I have to give them a nudge initially to get em started. Is it more likely to be a knackered...

Put the cat back on. I decat my 172 for about 1 week but put it back on as it was driving me insane and was pretty embarasing driving into work (a school) with what sounded like a Corsa most 17 year olds back in 2000 would drive lol

Do you not need to replace the UCH along with the ECU and the decoder ring around the ignition?

Fair enough, it will be ok then. The correct level is when it starts to dribble out, and if it's on a flat surface it can't dribble out to a level below the correct level so will be fine. Without wanting so sound like a nob, id personally take it to a garage for the belt to be done if it's...

You need to fill it while the car is flat on the ground. If you've got the front jacked up then it will overfill and spill out when you put the car level.

Pretty sure it was him. I did it that way as I couldn't be arsed with the subframe bolts spinning. Was a case of remove basically everything, inlet plenum, ecu etc and there's just enough room to maouver it out. If I was to do it again id probably drop the subframe as it was a massive pain...

Haha. I must admit, after the last gearbox/clutch job I did on the drive on a 1.7cdti astra i was in pain for a good week after that!

I'd personally not bother with the lift if your going to have to pay for it. It's more than doable on the floor, it's actually possible to lift the box out the top

Did mine on my back on the drive on axel stands in about 10 hours on my own. So it recon you can easily shave a few hours off that a with a lift and an extra pair of hands.

The only realistic option I can think of at the minute is a 2010 civic fn2. Keep the NA screamer but with a more modern design. 197s and 200s just don't do it for me.

Can't see me lasting 10 years but I also can't think of anything else I'd want to swap it for. All these new turbo engines have plenty of power but I can't see them having the character of the clio!