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I echo the standard option. I got mine new, and over 125k miles and many trackdays I've stuck with standard (got through 3 complete sets). The only reason I'm now on Sportlines is because I had a cracked front spring, and there were no used standard sets for sale on here. Give it a go, take...

Standard is good. Stick with it.

Forget thoughts about the calipers being to small for the car...the Cup race cars run standard calipers. There are 4-pot options, but most stick with standard. Braided lines, a good fresh fluid, Brembo HC discs, and standard pads are more than adequate on the road. For mild track use, DS2500s...

Nothing wrong for me, just had 4-5 games without trouble...never had a problem.

This...if anyone's interested that is. Find a quiet road, get up to say 40mph in 5th gear, then while staying at 40mph, shift down through the gears to 2nd, rev matching each shift. Your aim is to stay at a constant 40mph, giving no noticeable 'jerks' forward or backwards as you select each...

Right, I'm with you. I do that technique when the brakes have gone and the pedal's squishy, but if I can avoid totally cooking them I stick with rolling off to the side.

Everyone does!

I know, I know, I know it's pointless, I was just seeing if I could do it :o

But if it's like that, you have to angle your foot to the left to avoid pressing the throttle until you want to? What ForceIndia man said, you want the brake pedal higher so when it is pressed your foot comes down closer to the level of the throttle. This is also why braided lines make good...

I did this in my Cup out of curiosity :eek:, both up and down the 'box. It changes very well without the clutch, so long as you wait for the revs to reach the right level it slips in nicely without a crunch.

What you described in your main paragraph IS double de-clutching...you're pressing the clutch twice with every shift. Being on or off the brakes doesn't change that fact. Heel/toe shifting is all of that, but without the pause in neutral to match the input/output shaft speeds in the gearbox...

It doesn't. That's double de-clutch shifting you're thinking of. Heel and toe/rev matching does nothing to help, assist, or replace the job of the syncromesh. All it does is stop unintended weight transfer and gives the clutch an easier time.

Aye, there is that to consider. Took me a looooooooooong time to get comfortable using my left-foot to brake for fast corners where no down change is required, was always afraid I'd either lock up, not apply enough pressure and get enough speed off or snap off of them instead of easing off...

You can learn on the road. Forget heel and toe, just practice rev matching first. Once you're comfortable with the concept, you can move on to practicing H/T so you can do it while you're on the brakes as well. Contrary to popular belief, you don't need to be braking or driving hard to do it.

Wow, great pictures Andy. Love this sort of thing.

I rev match every single gear change I do in every car I drive on the road, not all are done using heel/toe but they're all matched. If you can do it, why wouldn't you? Your clutch and drivetrain will thank you for it in the long run. As for when on track, I can't understand why more people...

Ah, not thought of that. But then I'm shockingly bad at getting killstreaks...got 5 for the first time ever last night so 6 for the sentry gun is a big ask LOL

Quick question...what's a ball park figure for attending and having some track time?

I'm running ghost, hardline, and hacker at the moment as trying to find/destroy a sentry gun for my ghost pro. I don't bother with scores and my k/d ratio is attrocious. I just enjoy trying to get the challenges done for max XP as I suck when it comes to 1 v 1.

Yes it does work, it does boost the octane rating of the fuel in your car. Having higher RON fuel won't do anything for your car though, so as above, it's just the same as setting fire to your wallet.

It may not have required the changes. My understanding is that what's needed for some other jobs, can make changing the cambelt a no brainer due to the easy access you'd have. Like if your gearbox was removed for something. Unless you're clutch is recent, while the 'box was out, it would make...

:cool: No problemo.

Where are you based?

It is too expensive for the performance increase over what's been suggested above. If you want them for looks, then £700 might not be too much. As said, HCs, good pads, fluid and a fresh bleed, I've personally never needed any more than that.

I'm sure I've got these/this in my YT faves. Embarrassingly, after watching it I PMd Mr Hunter and offered some driving advice! That was a long time ago... Going to go balls out to try and get to one of your races this year Jay, massively impressed with your progress :approve:

I think you are more than likely, the only one. As above, no sounds, no warning, no way of verifying if it's just about to go. Good luck.

Well, he's not been on since 2100 on 06/02...doubtful he'll be back. Hope he is though, would love to see this thing.

A slicker OS that I don't need and a lit keyboard that adds nothing; is that really it? I'm more than glad I went for what I have if that's the case.

I had this dilemma last year after changing my job and having to give my old work laptop back. Primarily needed for surfing and video editing. Found a decent enough laptop for £399 with strong processor and overspecced ram and hdd. Since then it's been flawless and renders my video projects...

Yep, the standard Goodwood circuit. I won't be taking Iggy though...it's a very fast circuit (I get well into 5th twice per lap in the Cup) so the Ignis would really struggle and probably spend about 95% of the time at full throttle. I'm looking for a Brands Indy day mid summer to take the...