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If it's just for wet then I'd probably stick with R1R as I believe it's a little softer compound. The R1Rs wear rate is pretty bad on a warm and dry surface though.

Bump. No other autotesters here?

I really want to try the Cooksports. ​I have Sportlines at the moment and they seem just that little bit too high.

Just be aware that the Wishbone bushes can get a little labour intensive - the wishbone bolts are usually stiff, the bushes may need burning out, the sleeves require a bit of care to cut out, the new sleeves can be awkward being pressed in and require a few tacks of weld to secure it to the...

Have you tried slacking the gearbox and engine mount and pulling the engine forwards?

Really? I just replaced my 160k mile, 7 year old wheel bearing which had no play in it and was only replaced after starting to drone following a big pothole impact ;) This sounds like what I chased around for over a year. In the end tie-rods, trackrods and balljoints solved it :) Have you...

I've never seen the top two clips before, either. Mine have shims and spring clips and they've yet to fall out in 2.5 years/25k miles.

I bought Powerflex items - Wishbone, ARB and Dogbone. I think I bought them from Ktec or Kam. Be sure to get some new OEM ones, but that's it.

Put a plastic bag over the reservoir and put the cap back on or a elastic band or something, remove the caliper and pipe and simply refit and bleed. A full reservoir should be plenty to bleed the brakes without refilling, but I'd go down to Halfords or similar and pickup an EZ-Bleed - it makes...

While you're doing it, do the balljoints and TREs as well - with everything apart it's barely any more work, and parts are cheap. I'd heavily consider polybushes as well - again, you're half way to doing the job with the front shocks off so it's not a massive amount of extra work and will...

I'm sure when I bought mine, the OEM Cup units are only about £40 a side.

I've never had an issue slacking the topmount nut - did you try slacking it off before you jack the car off?

A friend of mine had his 172 fitted with a 182 and a friend custom fab him an exhaust to suit. Worked pretty well tbh.

Every so often Halfords put their 'do everything' toolkit from £200 down to £100. It's great value and has almost everything you could need for basic tasks - definitely a worth while investment. I bought one 4 or 5 years ago because i was fed up of my tools being a mismatch of 50 years of...

I might be wrong, but Wishbone's can only from from the dealer and come with bushes and ball joints. I've had two sets of cheap track rod ends in two years, excluding the ones that were on there when I bought it - next time I'll definitely be buying genuine. In short - go genuine!

Forgive me for being a pessimist. But for the sake of a Diesel shopping car - if you want to tune it, why not just start with a GTTDI or in fact, any PD engined Golf/A3/Fabia?

I paid £55 for my last genuine aux kit from the local dealer. But then, I did moan that the tensioner had seized just a few months outside of parts warranty.

Take it to a local independent - it's not a difficult job. You could even get it a bit cheaper by doing the rears yourself - it's a half hour job to get the rear on axle stands, get a jack under the rear beam, unbolt the shocks, drop the rear beam, swap springs and reassemble.

Less than a tenner from any motorfactor like euro car parts/ses/unipart/gsf etc. etc.

In most cases, by the time it's aligned properly it's an easy two hours. I'd expect to pay £100-120.

Just grab a rear pad fitting kit - you should be able to get it from Renault or any motorfactor. It comes with the angles and clips as well as the pad retaining clips. Cost me about £8 from my local factor (SES).

Quite a test you've been through with the engine etc! Out of curiosity, what did it cost for the engine machining work and the new gaskets, bearings, rings etc.

I was told RFT for mine. But if a workshop manual exists around the forums somewhere, I'd love a copy!

I want to experiment with the setup of my car for auto solos. Currently I have Cup packed dampers and eibach sportlines, -1.5deg negative camber on the front and that's about it. I figure that with autosolos, I'm looking to push the car closer to a tendency to oversteer. Lower pressures and...

Is yours cup packed? Got any pics? I'm looking for front and rears for my cup packed 182 with 15x6.5" ET37 Turinis. I'd much rather trust someone else's experience than make a rough measurement.

Slightly buckled wheel or fitting knocked the retaining clip off?

I didn't see it was a 1.2. In which case, listen to Chip. I had issues with my car pulling around, it was the combination of a buckled wheel and play in the inner and outer track rods on the same side.

FWIW, that front toe is fine. I believe factory settings are 7 minutes toe out So if you have -8mins one side and -6 mins the other side, that would be -7 each side if you turned the steering wheel slightly - I suspect he just moved the steering slightly when doing up the lock nuts. The only...

More leverage/guns required.

You want the tyre to clear the inside of the arch, regardless. You could remove the springs from your shock, jack the wheel up while the car is in the air and measure the gap between tyre and arch?