Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
sorry - was thinking in terms of feel, rather than measurement. would hope an additional 8hp ontop of 170ish in a light car would be noticeable. must be that some aren't all that bad 'out of the box' (despite physical appearance of ports). guess it's going to depend upon the individual...
some have noticed no difference, even with a non-RS lower. no way you can be sure you will or won't and is one of those mods that you have to spend on before you find out seemingly.
didn't know the RS inlet was fitted from '03 onwards - nice snippet
not exactly the same as you describe but mine's displaying a 'wheel out of balance' type of symptom after having run over a rock. think i've traced it to the top mount and possibly the damper rod (which, having stripped the strut, i can see has a little free play in it). still haven't bought the...
i had the cheap one from Halfords (HP1400?) - it was on offer at £35 and has apparently gone back up to £70 now. it didn't last long anyway.
it's a bit of a lottery with cheap power tools - i've another PW (B&Q own brand) that cost about £40 donkeys years ago and still works fine (now that...
someone posted a video of a hillclimb/sprint start a while ago and i think they said they use 4-5k. it was very impressive anyway. it takes a lot of skill to effectively feather a clutch at those kind of rpms and, personally, happier using 2-3k on the odd occasion i might play with starts...
ditto - providing they're the same all round, it shouldn't necessarily spoil your fun. poor tyres on the front with decent ones on the back's going to be annoying though
according to the workshop manual, TRX is the specified Tranself product - not sure if NFP isn't just the same stuff, relabled? there are loads of different codes for the Tranself range and it's confusing.
would have thought any 75/80 GL5 would be OK. i've put TRT in mine, which is 'lower' than...
it's a good idea to try a few before spending lots of money on a pair, as fit and comfort vary a lot between different seats; you can also find that things change once you've got them in the car as well, as the seating position/elevation of the subframe can highlight 'problems' you didn't think...
you want a photo of a top engine mount?
there are a few on search if you have a look; or i've one spare (off the car) that i can take pictures of if you need a particular view
if you have/know someone with a bench mounted vice, that'd do it (using a suitable press, obviously - piece of exhaust pipe, etc). or you could probably hammer it out if you were careful and supported the surrounding alloy on a flat surface
ed. if the bushes are the same design as the Ph2's...
it's not actually as exciting as everyone makes it sound.
if you really want to do it yourself, read Haynes and have a go.
a cheap grinder with a cutting disc will make it a lot easier - they're about £20 in B&Q/etc
i paid about £900 to have my box rebuilt and refitted (the clutch wasn't renewed). cheapest way to do it would probably be to find a good s/h box (risky) and have that fitted by someone whose labour rate isn't enormous.
it's worth sticking with, as there are a good number of 'less excitable' users and a lot of useful info in the archives - it's just that it doesn't take a great deal of thoughtlessness from some before things are off on tangents.
the forum does have a lot to offer to offer if you're willing to...
i've the 2.5" stainless on mine and think it's fine on the motorway. it's only ever 'noisy' at fairly large throttle openings and it seems to boom a little around 4k, off throttle, as it coasts down from higher rpms. it's never particularly noisy to me though.
stuff like this is fairly...
i don't know how the exhaust is configured on the model you have, so this is general advice.
take it off, working from the back to the front - may need penetrating oil; may also need to cut things off if they're seized.
refit from the front to the back. use new gaskets (and mounts, if...
gotcha. i think a lot of sprinters automatically find themselves thinking about this kind of thing, just as it's so easy to see the timed difference between runs before/after various bits have been done to the car.
sounds good. i'm 'saving' for the Vibratechnics pair at the mo - hoping they'll be better than the OE ones.
the poly bushes aren't all that difficult to squeeze into the dogbone and come supplied with grease that'll help
i'd say it's better to stick with a good, progressive road tyre (track tyres tend to be much less progressive) and learn how the car handles on those before, may be, later deciding to use track tyres. (ed. - as Keith185)
there are loads of cons to track tyres and, personally, tend to prefer...
there is a common problem with similar sounding symptoms that is caused by the engine mounts. you can sometimes get away with pulling the engine forward after having slackened them, but will need to replace some/all of them if that doesn't sort it.
there are four mounts; three are upgradeable...