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aye - top right, underneath the screenwash. there should be a yellow steering wheel decal on the cap

cheers

just a quickie - can anyone confirm how much front dampers are for the 172 Cup please? had a quick look on search and couldn't find a confident answer thanks

about £180 (!) it's been suggested by others before, but you could probably have a hydraulic hose specialist make one up for a fraction of that

think they're all the same. part number 8200662257 is what i was given for mine anyway

it's a doddle - half hour, tops - lift with trolley jack under centre of beam, axle stands either end - remove the lower damper bolts; may need to use penetrating oil; thump the (ring)spanner/ratchet with a heavy mallet if the bolts are stubborn - rubber cups off of the top mounts in the...

the hose infront of the t/b (as you face the car) is for the acoustic valve have a look underneath the n/s headlamp - the acoustic valve should be bolted to the airhorn bracket (might not be able to see it from above) it may have been removed - it's just a plastic tube with a butterfly valve...

as Roy, the order shouldn't make any difference i think it's NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF in the manual; logic presumably being that you start with the wheel furthest the m/c, then move on to the other in that circuit (diagonally split system), then the next furthest from m/c, .. shouldn't make any odds...

use a block of wood at the back of it if you've not a mallet and don't want to risk breaking it

no bother:)

i've approached someone about the possibility of having the OE mounts remanufactured with stiffer rubber; may or may not come to anything. will advise IDC if it's interesting

i did the same - bought 2L just incase, as i thought it held 1L. mine bled through at about 0.5L, but it's a Cup and i'm guessing there's some extra capacity in the ABS gubbins on the other cars (?). should be fine with what you've got anyway - Easibleed method is v efficient at minimising fluid...

i just use a large syringe (chemists) to take most of the old fluid out of the the res before filling it back up with new. it's not all that easy to tell when the new fluid's being pulled through (unless you use a different coloured brake fluid - eg. ATE Blue) - just need to give it a good few...

Grand - thanks for that

Just got a quick question - can anyone explain the differences between the mounts on the RS Clio2, please? Am I right to believe that they're all the same across the Ph2 models? - Upper engine mount - Upper gearbox mount - Dogbone - Support piece at front of g/box I know the Ph1's dogbone...

does it go straight to the odometer when you start the engine? don't know what that means - may be the oil level sensor's down or something

they come up once the engine has been started in mine, and revert to the trip after a few seconds (ed. that's the 'OIL OK' message anyway - it doesn't display blobs) use the dipstick anyway

there's a link in post#5 to a company that sells pattern ones for about £8ea, although they will probably be available over the counter locally for not much more (eg. Bosal part number 255151; you'll have a Bosal dealer somewhere near you). really do need to support them with tube/etc, otherwise...

is the other end of the bolt exposed under the car? clean the threads up and WD that if they are (sorry, misread and thought you were trying to start the bolt, hence hammer suggestion)

aye, violence might not be the best idea if it's already started rounding. not sure you'll get much more leverage with grips tbh, although shouldn't slip off so easily

is there enough room to thump the ratchet with a soft faced mallet? providing it's a reasonably large bolt head and your ratchet isn't too cheap, that'll often start problem bolts

haven't looked at a 182, but can't see it being any more complicated than the 172 (?) - it's a 172 in that guide anyway they're dead easy to fit - don't need to lift the car or use a jack under the exhaust (use a lump of wood or similar to support the back box if you want to, but, providing...

need an accurate tyre pressure gauge. obviously, the higher the pressure, the more likelihood of it leaking - think they suggest using about 20psi. you can flatten the tyre fairly quickly if you have bother getting it to seal.

don't need to support anything when changing the dogbone as its purpose is to contain the unit's fore and aft movement

tracking needs checking/doing regularly really, as it's so easy to knock out of line for one thing - it's just that it's usually much less obvious when it's out on PAS equipped cars about £30. i'd take it somewhere discerning (like Protyre) rather than Kwikfit/etc

few things it could be, but start with the cheapest potential cause (tracking, as already suggested)

three things - the sliders, the piston (don't remove it - just lube it with WD, by winding it back it and pumping it out repeatedly), and the handbrake mechanism (within the rubber boot)

mine's a '52. there should be a sticker on the underside of the rack body; may be it's been lost from yours? pretty sure i've got photos of my rack somewhere - if there are external differences between the different types, might help you identify which you've got?

very easy to fit - easily do-able in a short afternoon - most of the time's involved in making sure everything's clean before putting it back together

guess you've a few options. it must be possible to identify which rack you've got without the sticker. didn't know there were four types - thought it was just SMI or TRW - need to find out what the differences are in the hope that that would allow you to identify which you've got. i had my...