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I'd personally have no issues reusing the belt if it's that new. How about the tensioner?

My S40 was a 10 year interval, but I've never seen anything above that myself.

Ignore me - just noticed they have there own section!

What's happened to Renault Parts Direct? I thought they were a trader on here but I can't see them in the traders section.

Nothing wrong with the Elf oil from Renault, and it's usually a good price online. RE the gearbox, it's up to you - it would probably benefit from a change though.

If a new lambda sensor didn't fix it, then it's probably not the lambda at fault. Unless you bought one of the cheapo eBay ones that is? Have you had any diagnosis done on the car? At the very least it needs the codes reading and ideally a session on Clip (By someone that knows how to use it)

Surely whatever code reader you have can only report the codes stored on the ECU? I've got a cheap wifi obd2 cable and use Dashcommand on iPhone, I've never had an incorrect fault code yet.

Awesome - glad it's up and running again! I've got mine in for it's MOT tomorrow. Still have a ball joint to replace and a headlight washer to fix before 9am tomorrow. Busy night tonight then!

Screen protector? To be fair, the glass on my 7+ seems very scratch resistant so I've never bothered myself.

Did they add any UV dye when they regassed?

You sound like me! The only thing better than my GTi-6 was my S16!

EFA Yes, but only if you know where to get them from, Renault will only sell the complete unit (hence it costing the OP £300 more than it needed to)

A complete unit from if bought from Renault yes, but there are places that repair them now with new ball joints for considerably less!

Just find a good 306 GTi-6 and be done with it!

What sort of IAT are you reaching on track etc?

No, drained the system, ran a hose through until clear, filled and bled the system and ran up to temp and drained/vacuumed the system - Rinse and repeat x 4

Oh and @Sir_Dave if you need to do anything like that again on it, whip the front end off - it only takes 20 minutes to remove the bumper, crash bar and rad housing and it gives you full access to the front of the motor

Yes mate, mines all done. It was full of lovely brown sludge. It took me 4 fills and empties (including a wet vac on the block) to get the water to run clean! 3l of Comma G48 Antifreeze and the rest deionised water and it's all good. I have realised my low speed fan isn't working, but that...

@Sir_Dave How did you get on with this at the weekend?

Depends how bad the coolant is that's in it now really. I changed the rad on my MCS at the weekend, it took me 4 fills and empties (including using a wet vac on the block) to get the shitty brown 'coolant' out of it.

I forgot you like how it sounds, just have the tail pipes chopped off and changed at an exhaust place?

You do dilute it, but usually 1:1 ratio. So you have 3l of coolant once mixed with water. You can dilute further, but at 1:3 you are down to about -15 from -36 protection wise. I'll have done mine before then, I'm using Comma G48 antifreeze in mine I've decided.

@Sir_Dave Is 1.5l enough? Sounds a bit low to me. I'm sure you'll get more than 3l out of the system when draining.

Yes mate, o/s top corner of all time places. Cheers, I'll take a look at that coolant

@Sir_Dave Nice one, that little lot should sort it out! What coolant have you gone for? Changing my rad this weekend, but need some decent coolant to go back in.

As above - They aren't a service item, so only replace if you are having trouble with one fitted.

Just take it back and let them deal with it. You shouldn't need to diagnose the problem for them.

Do you have any old broadband routers knocking about? I use a second router I had as a wireless access point. You just need to turn off DHCP on the second router, so the main router allocates the IP addresses. I even have mine set up with the same WIFI broadcast name(s) and passwords, so...

have a go yourself? You could get all the gear for less that it will cost you to get it done by someone. Depends if you have the time/patience/skill to do it or not though I suppose! Something like this from Dom @ Shop 'n Shine would do the trick I would think...

I picked up a Makita 1/4 drive impact driver off Amazon last week. As I already have a drill with 2 batteries and a charger it only cost me £55. 160nm too, and I've tested it on the wheel bolts, and it easily get's them to 125-130NM. Great tool to have!