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Definitely the 82V as a speed rating of H is only up to 130mph/210km/h. Here in Germany, you'd have to have a sticker on your speedo with the H tyres reminding you not to go faster than 210km/h. Not a problem in the UK, I guess, as you're not allowed to go that fast on the street anyway. :rasp:

+1

Depends on how you drive it. Sure there is a tendency towards understeer, but the fun is in honing your skills, getting better with each lap, hitting the next corner just right, driving on the limit, blasting through corners etc. :)

I think you missed a few dust speckles on the sideskirt.

In that case 205/50 15 would also be an option. But from the way gsw's question was phrased, I doubt he's aiming at track use, tbh.

I assure you, it's not a waste of time. It's huge fun.

A lower profile tyre usually gives better handling but slightly less comfy ride. But the difference between 195/50 and 195/45 should be marginal, I reckon.

Sorry to be late to the party, but here's my iceberg on 15" OF F1s in anthracite ("lowered" on eibach pros):

I'm running 15" OZ F1s with an offset of 37 and they do clear the caliper just fine. However, if you have big ole balancing weights on there and if those are in the wrong spot, it might be problematic. (btw, I'm on Toyo R888 in 205/50 15 and even with only pro lines it's a very tight fit -...

I'm not sure which mount exactly that is, but it can't be the dogbone mount, as the mechanic quickly checked it while I was there and it was fine. I think he said something about the "rear gearbox mount".

Little update on my part: According to a Renault mechanic my drive shaft sleeve (cuff? cast?) needs doing, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the juddering, I suppose. All engine mounts and suspension parts are supposedly fine. Except for the ARB rubbers (bearings?) which need...

I'm not sure, but I thought the Konis were only adjustable so that you could counter wear. In the sense that you can tighten them up a little if they start sagging (hope I'm making myself clear...).

Here are a couple of DIY solutions: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=316621 http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=304127

That's good news! I'll have my car in for the 80.000km service tomorrow and tell the garage to check the engine mounts then. Pictures would be appreciated, though.

Centre bore on clios is 60.1mm. Outside diametre of the spigot rings is dependant on the wheels.

Thx guys. That's good to know. Now I just need to find a good deal on the Konis.

Thanks for your answers, guys. The thing is: I want more negative camber. The question for me is more, whether I would still need camber bolts if I went for the Konis or if those would give me some negative camber right out of the box. That's minus 2°, I suppose? Any idea how much of that can...

bump. Anyone?

Well, the Eibachs work really well overall, except for hard left turns. But I suppose there are no springs that would change anything. How about the dampers? Have you had them checked somewhere along the line? I reckon you are on stock dampers, aren't you?

Because they're not available in 195/45 16. Nor in 205/45 16, so the 195/50s are the closest to stock.

Hi everybody, I've read on here before that the yellow konis provide more negative camber than the standard dampers, probably due to a slightly different bracket design. I'm thinking about getting a set and using it along with the eibach pro springs. Could someone confirm that this will...

Update: New top mounts didn't cure the problem, neither do the Eibach springs or the semi slicks make any difference to the hopping and juddering. Could it be that the right front damper is somehow knackered? I'd really like to keep this thread going and hear from others with the same problem...

Seeing how soft the sidewalls on my XLs are, I really doubt that the regular ones would be much softer. They might give a little more comfort on bad roads, though. Track use is a completely different matter. But if you're planning on doing that, I'd recommend not getting the F1s at all. Well...

XLs should have slightly stiffer sidewalls, as they are made for higher loads. But it probably won't make much of a difference. Sidewalls are awefully soft on the GSD3s anyways. So, if you're just planning to use them on the road, the regular ones (no XL) should be fine.

Hey Plimsole, doesn't make it better, that there are others with the same problem, but it's still good to know that I'm not alone. :) Top mounts have been replaced on monday and Eibach springs were fitted along with OZ F1s and Toyo R888s. When we fitted them, we noticed that there's a tiny bit...

Ah, thx for the info. That's good to know. Increasing castor is obviously not the way to go then on my ph2. More negative camber is needed then. While I'm at it: I've read that yellow konis give more camber due to the bracket design (at least I suppose that's the reason). Could you or anyone...

Nice. Wouldn't refurb them in a different color, white always looks racey and purposeful, somehow.

If my understanding of the relation between castor and camber is correct, more positive castor should give more negative camber under cornering. Basically without the negative side effects of negative static camber. The only disadvantage of high caster angles seems to be a little heavier...

I found the sidewalls on the gsd-3s to be very, very soft, even on the extra load version (the ones marked XL). Fine for street use, but rubbish for the track. Half of my sidewall was basically gone after two 15-minute turns on a twisty track, and the shoulder was pretty much round.

There's probably no way of knowing unless you try it out (or if someone else has tried it). It's very likely, however, that it will screw up the handling, as springs are developed to work best when used as a full kit. Front and rear are tuned to each others characteristics, after all. So, if...