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Couldn't agree more.

Hi everybody! As I understand it, castor is not adjustable on the 172 from stock. So, is there a way to increase castor somehow? Apparantly, the 172 cup has 3° more castor than the 172ff. Would it be possible to get the same on a 172ff just by exchanging some parts? Or would this require a...

Very lovely car. But the spoiler will ruin it. It's perfect as it is.

Just to confirm: Eibach was talking rubbish. The pro dampers do not fit the 172. The bolt size on the 172 is 14mm while the dampers are made for 12mm bolts (as on all other Clios apart from the 172, I suppose). Quite annoying, really. I'm on stock dampers and Eibach springs for now, which is...

But you're not going to change the amount of load going to the front either by lowering it. Load transfer will stay the same no matter what you do to the suspension (short of dropping it all together and thus lowering the cog). So increased front grip and better turn in can basically only come...

Are you suggesting that you can change the weight distribution of a car by lowering it in the front? How's that supposed to work? Surely that's not gonna shift the cog forward in any noticeable way...

Which doesn't mean that they won't fit, though. Could someone with an in-depth knowledge confirm if Eibach was talking rubbish?

Seems you know more about that matter than Eibach then, as they are saying they do fit.

Hi everybody, probably a very stupid question, but I was wondering if someone knew how to remove these caps/plugs from OZ rims (see picture) without breaking them? Most likely, the key here is brute force -- but maybe not, maybe there's a trick? Thx, Linsen

Yeah, I reckon the eibach dampers have the same brackets as standard dampers, but I thought it couldn't hurt to ask. Would have expected more definitive answers, though, tbh, as there seem to be so many people driving the eibach kit...

Try carfolio for starters. I know there are other sites like this around, but forgot which.

I'm no suspension expert, but from my understanding, dampers don't have an effect on ride height at all. At least under normal circumstances. Spring length and spring rate determine the ride height.

Not sure if I've been clear enough: I'm not talking about the standard clio dampers but the "standard" eibach dampers that come with the pro-kit. That's what I'll be using. (They're made by Sachs, btw, but that's probably always the case with the eibach pro-kit).

Well, the pro springs will not drop it much. Around 20mm is what most people say. I was more wondering if the mounting holes of the pro dampers were positioned differently to give some negative camber. I'm asking because I heard there were some dampers around that would do that. Some Konis, I...

Hi everybody! Just a quick question: Does the Eibach pro kit change the camber settings on the front axle? I mean, I know that the pro dampers (Sachs) are not camber adjustable, but I was wondering if they came with a little more negative camber than standard. Thanks, Linsen

Starting from the furthest corner and working your way through allows bleeding the brake system in such a way, that mixing of the old and the new fluid is minimized. So, yes, you can do whatever you like, but I don't see a reason not to use the most efficiient way...

Thanks for your answers. I know that it's not the tyre, as I had it on two different sets. Suspension is stock but soon to be changed to the Eibach pro kit. When that happens, I'll replace the top mounts anyway, so I'll see if that helps. And I guess a thorough look at the rest of the...

Hi everybody, I know there are several threads about hopping or knocking under hard acceleration in 1st, and I have that too. I know that this might be fixed by adjusting the engine mounts, which I will try soon, however, I am also getting severe juddering or hopping under hard left cornering...

Thanks so far, guys! Seems like 205/50-15s is not the worst choice, then. Loving those Speedlines and the black OZ F1s. Speedlines are almost impossible to get over here, though, but I'm currently having an eye on anthracite OZ F1s off ebay. I just don't know if they have the correct centre...

What are your rim and tyre dimensions? 7Jx15" and 205/50-15?

Hi everybody, I'm in the process of getting some dedicated track wheels and would be interested in what people around here are running on the race track (track days, not outright races). I'm currently thinking I should get some cheap 7x15" rims and Toyo R888s in 205/50-15. What are you all...

lol, you're right of course. :) I guess I had the Hankook R-S2 in mind when writing this. They just are ZR's Bigger is better? (no pun intended) With 195/50-15 I get a rolling radius that's 1% smaller than my current 195/45-16s. Whereas with 195/55-15 I'd be getting 2.3% more and 205/55-15...

Thx for your help guys. I suppose it's in fact mainly due to the tyres and my driving. I was driving rather hard and not very disciplined yesterday and did indeed have some rather high slip angles coming out of some of the turns. Also on the german Touristenfahrerforum quite a few people said...

I always thought overheating was more likely to occur when tyre pressure is too low. I had the pressure set to 32psi cold on that day. Not sure what it went up to, but it was at over 40 a few minutes after the stint. Is that too high? Edit: Wouldn't too low tyre pressure increase the side wall...

I always thought camber was not adjustable on the Clio? But if it is, I'll surely get that sorted when I have the pro-lines fitted. It'll need alignment anyway then.

Hm. Very strange. I thought the Goodyears were rather good UHP tyres. I guess not, then. At least not for track use. I have been thinking about getting a second set for track use. What would you guys recommend then? I hear the Hankook RS2s are pretty good. Should I get 15" rather than 16"...

That's normal? No way. I haven't seen anything like that on anybody elses car. Maybe I need to take a better picture... This can't be normal.

Hi everybody! After my first stint on a race track today, I noticed that my tyres did not really look too good. The tread looks, erm, not very healthy (see picture, it looks and feels actually worse in reality). This is the front left tyre, which is the one that gets used most on that track...

I'll just quote myself from an earlier thread if you don't mind:

A bit OT, but: I reckon trail braking might be a solution to my understeer problem. If I do it right, I should be able to carry the same speed but have less understeer, shouldn't I? I'm working on that. And no, I'm not trying it in rush hour traffic, just on the track. :)