Search results

doesnt work like that mate... the battery is just a reservoir and you should technically be able to remove it from the car with the engine running, and the car should be self sufficient. Adding a better battery without uprating the alternator just means the amps draw current from the battery...

no, all the mp3 range headunits (almost all of them) have their model number ending in mp the model before that was the 8400mp

had a wee look around for you, £210 is probably the cheapest your likely to get it

£170 for an optima yellow top battery the split charge system is a good idea... but you really should be running a low gauge cable

if I remember correctly...

i run tomtom3 on an hp ipaq 2215i, the dell setup seems pretty good, particularly on offer. With regards to the memory, thats the one thing ive found... you can never have too much!

depending on the cable youre using, you should be able to get it through the bonnet release cable gromit just above the passenger footwell... think this is how most people have done it, including myself - will be a different story when i get my 0/1 guage cable though.

renault dealer...

yeah, it depends on the sub... problem is, when u bridge most 2 channel amps, it limits you to a 4ohm output. Meaning a 4ohm sub is usually best. bambam1, your 90% rule isnt the best idea. When creating a good setup, ideally you want an amp that can handle more power than the sub requires...

not true LeeBoy... the 2003 range was limited to the basic models, the 2004 range apparently all have support for oe controls.

id try another amp, make sure your running it with the LPF on (i use an 80Hz LPF). The box shouldnt be an issue if its the right volume and the subs are running in phase. How the bass sounds, really does depends on the sub itself though, so if a new amp and the right sized box doesnt make it...

eh? i take it u mean the 10s are more punchy than deep...

ditch the 6x9s... and if youve got an amp for the components then use it, assuming the amp is good (nice and clean with low THD), if its just a cheap amp then you might just be better running them off the headunit, as good components are useless off a crap amp...

same RRP as the pioneer AVIC-X1 which is also all in one... id be happier with the pioneer headunit, never even heard of CASKA

14.4v is the typical voltage they use when testing. Most car alternators put out 13.8v. Also, youd be just aswell buying one of those monoblocks and wiring the two subs for an overall 2ohm load, from a money point of view.

not seen the RA2s in the flesh, but surely the laser detector is detatchable? seems a bit strange that they can make laser detectors illegal. Laser diffusers are, and should be, illegal as they can be used to get round the law. Thing that gets me is, by the time your laser detector picks up...

The pop is basically normally a result of a capacitor discharging rapidly and sending a pulse to the sub - not particularly good for the sub, but not neccessarily bad either. As for the box, it certainly looks too big, which will result in a flat sound that lacks punch. Ported boxes are better...

wouldnt sound as good. Speakers should be mounted in order to enhance the sound stage, meaning tweeters should ideally be around ear level, mids a little lower, and woofers lower still. The above speakers are really a bad idea if youre planning to mount them in the door where the original...

the standard wiring already uses an ISO connector, so theres no need for an adapter. Must be a 1.4 Alize btw, dont think there is a 1.4 grande, i have a 1.2 grande.

lol, wish i could do the same... not a total 172 look i want though, my standard front bumper looks pretty cool with the splitter, and full colour coding... i just want the flared arches and am willing to get skirts for a 172 to fit.

was this ever done? came across this post when looking for information on doing the same except to a mk1

if its due to bass, then live with it, once you get rid of that rattle, another will come. Only solution is alot of sound deadening to bulk up the panels. Even high build quality cars such as veedubs eventually loosen and begin to rattle after months of heavy bass. if you really want to stop...

look behind the bonnet release lever, there should be a gromit which the cable goes through, you should be able to run it through there.

yeah, probably the sensor. Basically its just a resistor which varies is resistance through heat. If it was damaged at all, it could cause some weird temperature readings.

same happens to mine, disconnected the jet and tried it, it worked, put the jet back on and it isnt again... think its just blocked :(

if theyre an option then theyre not standard... try liverpool victoria or similar for a quote... directline are crap for mods, believe me, i know, lol thing is, i thought they were ok with 21 and over when it comes to modifications...

;) no problem, glad you got it sorted, even if it was for 6x9s, lol

is the fuse on the power cable still intact in your car? some amps (usually cheaper ones) have the power lights running from the remote power, meaning that it doesnt always necessarly have power... lol something worth checking, especially if you took the amp out and didnt take the fuse out!

things like this make me glad i dont have ABS and EBD, just two more things to go wrong, lol interesting that they said theyd be liable if u had an accident. No doubt if u actually did have an accident, theyd have said the warning lights had been on for a while and you continued to drive it...

i get it all the time in my mk2 ph1 1.2 8v, only things that make it non-standard is the colour coded bumpers, mud-guards, spoiler, and ph2 rear clusters... yet everyone wants a race