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i've got a code scanner as a trade off :)

i've got the 30mm socket, just need 60 seconds with the torque wrench to do my rear hub nuts thankyouplease

and harder to turn and more likely to tramline due to more rubber in contact with the road. do a search, i think its been asked before.

quite a change in the height of the sidewall- on the factory 195/45/16 the sidewall height is 87mm, on a 205/50 it's 102mm! it will put your speedo out by 5%, but in the right direction- they should over-read from standard, so you'll be sending it back in the right direction for accuracy. and...

prob worth checking the bolts are all done up, though i guess if you've checked the welds you've done this. maybe worth getting the wheels balanced? just guessing now though

i guess fitting new bushes has changed the geometry slightly from worn bushes, but i wouldn't expect a vibration

i've called a couple of garages who have the hunter system and one of them quoted £70 for full alignment or £35 for the front. what's the difference? (yes it may seem obvious ie. one is only the fronts, but i'm wondering if they still check the rear geometry for £35 and the cheaper option...

i did this on my integra, got boring and a little annoying after a while

Numpty alert? Cool. I bled my power steering with no lid or filter in the reservoir and emptied the reservoir all over my freshly cleaned subframe. Bit numptyish sent from my android phone using tapatalk

Not really much else to change in that area. Might be worth asking Fred to check for play in balljoints, wishbones and arb bushes sent from my android phone using tapatalk

if it's all down to the noise, can you not do a max power job and cut the hole bigger on the original box? or is it because the surface area of the filter inside the v6 airbox is greater than the flat filter in the standard box?

how it should be :)

not wanting to take business away from budgie, but here's my oem set up: for top mount i used a kangoo one from gsf for £50; lower gearbox mount (the 4th one that no one ever changes) was from a 1990-98 clio mark 1, £10 new delivered off fleabay; upper gearbox mount from a renault 19, £9 new...

may as well bleed the system as it's simple to do. with the engine off, turn wheel left to right, all the way to the stops, but don't hold it there for more than a second or so. then do the same with the engine running, again important that you don't hold it against the stops for longer than a...

with the wheel off the ground if you hold it at 9 and 3 o clock and give it a wobble and you can feel knocking, it could be either the track rod ends or track rods themselves. do the same with your hands at 12 and 6 o clock, if that feels like knocking it could be your ball joints. track rods or...

is the fluid level ok? can you hear the pump whining like a supercharger? edit: long shot, but does your auxiliary belt squeal? is the belt tight?

fitted a jubilee clip on mine as suggested by fred, doing the job fine.

cheers. is there anyway to guesstimate the torque using angles, ie upto 80nm then 45 degrees? bit of a bodge i know but it saves forking out for a big torque wrench

the discs i got (not from fred) didn't come with spacers, but the original spacers were fine. i bought some from renault in anticipation of finding a broken one, about £7 each.

i would be interested to know about that nut too. i did mine up tight a couple of weeks ago and no noise yet, but didn't know what the torque was. i've got a 10-80 torque wrench, but i guess it should be in the region of 120Nm or something. i could torque it to 80 then a breaker bar for a bit...

no. annoyingly enough still got eml, so i may be decatting it in the future. here is why i changed the lambda: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?563996-Clio-bogs-down-at-3500rpm&highlight=

i changed the lambda sensor and at the moment its behaving itself, but still giving eml. the emissions were very high at mot, so for now i'm guessing the cat has gone, or second sensor is fubar'd too. i'm going to order me a bluetooth code reader off ebay and see what info i get.

hmmmm, took me 15 mins this morning to get it off. perhaps the loctite deep freeze stuff worked its magic overnight? or the extra height given by the highest axle stand hole may have given me room for more leverage. anyhoo, all changed now :)

there's something mentioned on the testers paperwork about the cup and its dodgy brakes, i remember them showing me a couple of weeks ago. dont remember if it was the linkage or rear brake efficiency

i wondered that

What was the official reason on the fail certificate? sent from my android phone using tapatalk

how about hacksawing the bolt to weaken it?

holding the spanner's not too bad, it stays lodged on the lambda nut quite well, then i have a ratchet or breaker bar with a spark plug socket on the end. the spark plug socket has the 6 sided 22mm shape at the top, which goes on the spanner. instant lambda tool :) just a bit annoyed that i...

it's the front lambda. i'm thinking of going with the heat at the moment. fiddling with the bolts on the cat joint just above the subframe looks like more of a nightmare than i have now!

lol http://www.originalcookware.co.uk/kitchen-craft-cooks-blowtorch-with-chrome-fittings.ir?cName=food-preparation-blowtorches&src=froogle