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you could go for a used re se http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=123&sort=1&cat=6&page=2http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=123&sort=1&cat=6&page=2 - but to be honest they need a large ported box, and dont work that well sealed as...

For that you could pick up a second hand crystal comp 12 (im running one at the moment!) i think i know someone selling one, il check! and IMO they are one of the ultimate SQL subs! i love mine, and i would defo prefere a used comp12 to a new w3v2 any day of the week

yes but you can buy a second hand w6v1, they pop up fairly freq, and they are brilliant subs - much better than the v2, IMO the v2 doesnt stand upto its looks, a w3v2 would run well off the power you have, and the wiring is more suitable, but there are many other options bar JL, what is your budjet

alpine or pioneer hu IMO, i sway towards alpine, and a set of decent comonets up front, you would really need an amp for real punch id say http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2193http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2193 fronts...

but a 15w6 V1 (could pick one up for about £125) these are LOUD and great sq, i had one for about month, in a large ported box and it moved air, giving only about 400-500 rms it was hard to breath! - but i coudnt get into the boot build i had!! also they can go in small sealed enclosures...

^ to add to craigs - they fit under the dash http://members.lycos.co.uk/skatintherainuk/hpbimg/waveguide%20fronts%20copy.jpg they are desinged so the sound rolls up the dash and off the top. also sound staging with these is more to do with fidelling egs and xover points rather than aiming.

you can get better subs for the money. for slightly more, theres the polk (more of an sq sub tho tbh) or the digital designs, or for cheaper the re re12 or the dls - on the same page as that one...

yer the w3 is always dvc, and is avalible in dual 2 or dual 4. i would say the w3 as it will not only be louder but be better quality

- are all your ground points the same? have you got your rcas one side and your power cables the other? not likly to be head unit ground if only on sub - is it the sort that your rca cables go inot then it goes into your amps? - probabaly just road noise so it seems to get quiter.

^ what pete said, it also down to the setup, your fronts ect, do you know what you front start playing at? eg if your front play say 100hz and up play your sub from 100down, but the main thing is, select one, listen for a bit then change, then listen the change ect what front have you got...

use the profile 4 for the fronts only (either active (but u will need to buy an acitve xover) or passive just use 2 channels for each side) but be carefull with gains then the rocky powering the sub and ditch the 6*9s the chances are they have already been damaged by the sub anyway

used to have dashmatt (fabric to stop waves bouncing off dash and effecting the sound stage) now speakers are in kick, ive only got under dash covers!! and nothing on top!

if under the seat, you may need a fan or too to stop it from overheating also how about a flase floor that only covers say 1/3 of the boot foor, or just secure a piece of mdf to boot floor (again say only 1/3) and screw it to that or does the 172 have a spare wheel? or is it the cup that...

^ going to have to diagree there, the rears are the least important in you system. you can get many 13cm that are totally sufficent in the mid bass region, some of the Image dynamic mids are superb!! as for the 17cm, would could try building an mdf spacer ring, so unless these mids are not...

vote for the dls comps!!!

try vynil(sp) its a bit hard to work with but nice and cheap, just do a search on google (or similar!!) for retailers.

just like to add, the w0 can run off HUs (if its one of the HUs that the rears can be bridged!!) ive seen it done, and not sound bad!! 100rms is still a little low, my brother is giving his about 220rms and its nice for a cheap setup!

midge - durham! Jimmy - thanks for that! but yes your correct

sorry mine meant to red 1.5 is far too big sealed

Midge - would love to if you paid materials and for my food! but im off to uni tomorrow!!! Cheers guys!

id say go for an amp that gives about 300rms at 4ohms - say a vibe vp2, pick them up for about £60 and they are surpirsingly good for vibe IMO (well there new stuff is getting better)

box. i got one for my brother car, put it in a .7 sealed, or 1.25 ported, .5 is far too big, and its going to start flapping.

^ thats not the best rule, it can vary hugly, companies can distort things to get a higher max rating, like in amps 1000watt amps puching 100rms like wise with subs. but its usually between 3/4 and 1/4!!!

Eviljohn - thankyou! i spent a week alternating between working on the box and gardening, would be apply a layer of fiberglass, go and do something while it cures, apply another ect ect. then i spent about 1 1/2 - 2weeks in the evenings (cannot get much done though), of just the finer parts...

well, as far as looking the same, i cut the old pods out, which are not a standard size, or circular IIRC (the tweter+ conections was a oval shap - maybe wrong though) so as for just dropping a new tweeter in, not sure. Also as for cutting the pods out of the door cards, makes no real difference...

^ yes, to me as its something i enjoy, creating something from scratch, being creative, and having something to show for it that is one off and im proud of. I could say the same thing about modifing cars

its great stuff!! and worht it!

its reasonably easy - take the grilles off and have a look, it maybe that you have to take the door card off and cut away the pod like thing on the door card, but its easy. For the tweets, depends where you put them, the best way is to put them on a long wire, and try them in different places...

look in the Talk audio classifieds(sp) under car audio, there is black stuff on a group buy going on

yer its got alot to do with matching the colours. Well not sure how much you need, it comes 128cm wide, and you can get it as cheap as £35 a meter (at car shows or ebay), so if you got 2 meters, would do everything you need to do, its easy(ish) to work with, feels great!, avaliable in loads of...