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i also forgot to mention, that they cancelled my policy on three occasions, due to clerical errors, and as quoted above, they didnt have to offer me a poilcy, but they said they would'nt due to the underwriters not covering the paintjob. funny how another insurer would with the same...
i used to give a lot of people greenlights number, until my run i with them. car was insured with everything declaired, and for those who know my car, it was a fairly big list. then when i came to a renewal. they turned around and said, that the underwriters (highway) would no longer cover...
dont get a safety devices one. my brother worked there before it went bankrupt again, the cages are now made in poland, and are not what they were as far as quality goes.
undo the bolt on the ajustable arm on it, place a bar or similar etc, behind it, then pull it taking out the slack, and get some one to retighten bolt. job done.
turbo a valver lump as suggested, and sell williams lump. the valvers rev better and as said above you will need a williams gearbox, so dont sell that bit. i wouldnt bother getting your engine cammed etc, get it all done at the one time so everything is matched
mine is dropped around 60 at the front and 110 at the back on 18"s so slam it as low as you can, the only consideration you have to think of is speedbumps.
some people like going to car shows, and having a look at what people create, im one of them. others like going to a renault showroom and looking at cars that all look the same with a box of tissues in hand, im not one of those. sla**ing off a new member is not the way to get more members...
ive got a yellow top optima in mine, at one time ran 5 amps and all the other stuff, no problem starting after an hour or so with it all on. not cheap though.
i once worked on a police sdi rover pursuit car that wouldnt run. it died during a pursuit at 120 ish. in the end we followed the air in take and found a raddit squished in at the top of pipe which was around 1 and a half inches across blocking the airflow. it was luck more than anything...
good job i dont race it then. p.s the dangeorus bit in the clio is a clio, ever seen one hit really hard?, i woun'nt get out of it anyway, so no worries.
you will lose to much back pressure and it just wont pull as it did, did this when i had a valver engine in mine, couldnt pull the skin off a rice pudding once i done it. leave as is or you'll regret it.
basically, take it to a wheel dealers etc, and they sometimes no always, have a arch rolling machine, basically, it flattens the wheel arch. if you feel it it has a lip on it and this is what catches, by rolling this flat, it takes that away, and no more rubbing. hopefully!
the only headunits, i believe that work from experience are sony or alpine. as for the iso bit, renault radios are iso so should go sraight in, the only problem is the harness, that connects the stalks as this can be a bugger.
the back of mine is dropped around 90 mm, on 18"s and no problem, i take it you dont have a valver?, the other option apart from rolling arches is to get different tyres fitted which are thinner, other than that, strip it out.
i used these people to do mine, whey backwhen, based in maldon/ cold norton area. they collected and brought back if memory serves me correctly. tel:01621 744772
dont keep the clio gearbox!, put the 5 turbo one on and change the clocks over, ive had to do this recently as the clio geabox gave up in a major way. the 5 turbo box feels stronger, pulls better, and makes it go faster. as for changing the speedo and clocks, peice of piss, the only problem i...