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It depends entirely on preference and conditions - That's like saying all men like women with tits (Actually, not a great example)

How long did they leave it running the smoke test for? I'd start simple and remove/block all breather take-off's as it rules out external accessory items such as brake servos, purge and control valves, etc. Also, keep a tin of brake cleaner or deodorant handy (Lynx works well) and spray it at...

5w/30... Is it Diesel or in a different climate to ours? Normally 5w/40 to RN0700/0710 and 5l with a genuine filter will be just fine.

I'm stiffer to but we're still talking suspension, right? Hehehe We don't know what setup the car is running or the exact configuration either so it could be a combination of anything (too low, incorrect weight distribution, tyres, etc). A proper geo setup is often overlooked but is also often...

Sounds very much like too stiff a setup causing him to "skip" yes thus losing front end grip.

You got em chap - They're brilliant aren't they on and off the track FR 4.0kg/8.0kg RR = 220lb/450lb

Well you've proven its not electrical and is infact a leak by covering the MAP sensor hole, returning the idle to normal condition. Have you checked the integrity of the breather, brake vacuum and the rubber hose to the Bi-mode control valve?

Belts aren't expensive on these, we charge £370.00 inclusive of VAT. http://www.diamondmotors.net/our-prices/timing-belt-replacement/ The only thing you really need to watch for on these cars is steering and seat fabric condition (try don't wear well), electrics aren't normally an issue but...

If you've checked all fuses and GVM Relays, deffo a CAN configuration issue then. Simple enough to resolve with CLIP but need the car I'm afraid.

SSD without doubt - There shouldn't be any doubt on the subject.

I deffo owe you a huge favour though as i'd never got that resolved.

Huge thank you to @SharkyUK for helping out today with some of that silly "code" stuff - Normally I'd hit s**t with a big hammer until it works properly but I didn't think Apple Care would class that as a valid repair case.

Tricky to say for sure as i've not been in to Windaz machines since discovering the wonder that is OSX. Get as many cores as you can CPU wise, a good GFX card and as much RAM as you can muster. Solid works doesn't actually require too much to function but obviously, more is better.

I believe what the OP is asking is which position the cams need to be in when the pistons are at TDC as the "notch" is eccentric. In that case, the timing "notches" need to be in the lower position to be done correctly. It can be done in the upper position but you will struggle to get it spot on...

Thanks Sharky, i'll check that out later on

It's an age related failure which some say is due to infrequent oil changes where others say it's due to sitting in traffic... all we know is, you're better off changing them at the time of changing your timing belt rather than not. Mick

Dephaser is simple enough to rule out: Firstly - Do not listen to Jaff... he knows nothing unless it's a diesel train Secondly - run the car until it is up to correct "normal" temp Thirdly - Confirm the noise is present at idle and then raise the engine speed to 2-2.5kRPM - If the noise...

Dephaser or water pump... Dephaser is the most likely I'm afraid

In all fairness, my Cup has been fairly trouble free, bar it needing two new driveshafts.

The above figures are pretty decent targets to start with though and not far off where I set them prior to corner weighting. Don't forget though that the car axles *shouldn't* be set level unless you've got the driver and some fuel in the car to (CW%). Don't forget that tyre pressure will have...

As above, a well maintained 172 Cup with some choice mods is really all anyone needs to have fun in. I've considered ATB's, cams & remaps for mine but all it really needed was some good brakes and to make sure all the bushes/mounts are nice and tight. Not the fastest thing on the planet but I...

A '51 plate car is unlikely to have ESP so i'd say it's a CAN Configuration issue. What's the Red LED doing now: On or Off?

So you've also got the rear end lower than the front... These cars like a bit of rake (or face down, ass up as we say). This won't be helping your situation either

Step 1 - What is the red LED on the clockset doing when you turn the key: On/Flashing 1Hz, On/Flashing 4Hz, On/Solid & stays on, On/Solid then goes out?

Sounds like it needs a proper setup session. What are the ride heights and cross weight percentages like? As above, do not add a RARB as this will further exaggerate the oversteer.

I know, I replied to

It's a good place to start as it's common but without seeing the data channels you don't know if you've actually eliminated the problem or not.

Something to do with the GPU - To Apple you must go!

Drop me an email via the website if you wouldn't mind please Dan. I'm up to my balls in broken Renaults today and to make it even worse, the wife is going in to be induced later this afternoon #panic http://www.diamondmotors.net - I'm sure you can find the "Contact us" link and fill a form in...

Probably our crappy slow host then. Must move to a UK VPS