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new thread for anyone following: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?559337-No-brake-fluid-going-to-rear-offside-caliper&p=7460663#post7460663 solution: the garage could get fluid to the caliper but not out the nipple, new caliper and all well and good, both sides recording over 100%...

caliper swapped out and now recording over 100% efficiency both sides, although i did use a cable tie to lock the bias valve in the down position :)

yeah, this thread is prob due an update! we just did the box. we had the engine balanced on a jack so we could maneuver it around a bit to give us extra room. i dropped it back in the same way too. it's all working now, got my fingers crossed it stays that way. just passed mot too, needed a new...

thing is, the piston moved back and forth freely. beginning to get concerned that the garage are going to swap out the caliper and make no difference, then i have to argue about not paying for it as they haven't fixed the problem. always the way isn't it :)

think it came through at 0.28 and a fail is 0.30 car drives fine, sometimes feels a bit sluggish but not overly so, not enough to make me want to fix it yet. mpg is par for the course. am i likely looking at a lambda sensor?

does it start?

there's no fluid coming out of the pipe that runs under the car, i disconnected it from the bias valve to check. although i have an update... the car is in the garage and they say they ARE getting fluid to that caliper but not out the bleed nipple so they are replacing the caliper. we'll see...

hi, according to garage one of my rear calipers is knackered. they quoted me £300 to change it! which i politely declined. so need to find one myself, do other cars or clios use the same caliper? thanks, kristian

agency transmissions, think they mill a bit of metal out and fit a thicker circlip

The pipe that runs under the car, does that go all the way to the master cylinder or is there another joint? sent from my android phone using tapatalk

anyone seen this issue before?

funny thing is i was giving the wheel a wiggle, a kind of half hearted scandinavian flick, thinking that if it goes i can accelerate out of it, but it let go so smooth that by the time i realised it was too late and i just held on

old thread, did you ever sort this, i have a similar issue, no fluid getting to the rear offside caliper. no fluid going into the valve at the back.

i've undone all the pipework as far as the long pipe under the car that goes into the brake load sensing valve and there's no brake fluid! can anyone tell me, does this long pipe go straight to the master cylinder? if so, either that long pipe has been damaged somewhere or the master...

well, turns out nothing going to that caliper but air, no fluid in the lines on that side. gonna start a new more focused thread

no they didn't touch it. they showed me on the rollers, one side stopped the roller dead, one side didn't have much effect. but they also said they can't fail on uneven braking on the rears, so the fact that one side is recording 40% should be enough to pass on the cup. cant decide if i should...

i'll ask them, picking it up at 3

Bit concerned about that 150% though. I'd be happy arguing and appealing if I got 40% both sides. Why do u think such high figure on one side? sent from my android phone using tapatalk

same name as me :)

calipers are moving freely, new discs and pads yesterday

hi, surprise surprise my cup has failed on its rear brakes. apparently its recording 150% efficiency on passenger side and 40% efficiency on driver side i've read that they normally record 25-30% on the rear so 40% is relatively good, but bit surprised by the difference between passenger...

no just standard ones. the steerings a bit loose at the front so thinking about changing the bushes and it'll be easier to do the whole wishbone (i've done the track rods, track rod ends and ball joints) these seem the cheapest. there's always that wonder on whether they are the right ones...

as i'm considering getting some wishbones

i had lift off oversteer big time once, in a pug 406. rear end was light as anything. got a full 360 on a slip road and carried on going. god knows how i didn't hit the barrier.

yeah i not bought one yet. although with the knocking i plan to get one this week before my manifold cracks one off

so simple. here i am trying to figure out mechanics of tilting the engine back, when i just had to consider raising or lowering. talk about trying to make it difficult for yourself! :cheers:

I can't get the head of the manifold onto the studs, it won't angle over far enough as the top of the manifold/cat join is hitting the bottom of the bulkhead. should i slacken off the engine mounts and pivot the engine back a bit, or is this not gonna work with driveshafts etc in place?

i'm sure i recognise this car from somewhere, are you ever over in farnborough or reading?

hi, try this pic cheers

sorry, i'm back again. got some bolts left. the top row all have 8mm heads, the bottom three have 10mm heads. all heads are solid. bolt D- Dan mentioned as tie bar- is this the bar from the end of the dogbone to the gearbox? if so, this is fitted so this bolt is spare...? unless i've used...