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that will be why your "seeing" high speed...the speedo ratio isnt matched to the valver clocks.... same with a few of the other boxes, thats why people quote 130-odd-mph in 4th etc!

what 'box are you using?

www.ap-developments.com engine tuning though mainly. ;)

Why dont you just go to ZF and place a bulk order....cut out the middle man.

yeah you really need to cut into the bulkhead to get some decent length in there.

properly set-up they will return 35mpg on the M.way. As for building a high revving engine...well geometrically the bottom end isnt the best. The rod:stroke ratio isnt ideal, nor is the bore:stroke ratio. the latter is pretty fixed due to minimal bore wall thickness (if you were wanting to...

shouldnt that be all cars?! I take it you mean the throttle lol

yes Dan I mapped it. my dyno should be completed Jan hopefully.

is/was that in its current spec Jon?? is this the same dyno it made 240 bhp on?

they are rarely 20bhp up in standard form. this has "bodies and cams etc" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCc6T6_wqUQ

??

yup ITBS on an F7R are the way! I built one 2-3 weeks ago..headwork, 278* cams, forged pistons, made a real 220bhp and 183LBft. Absolute animal of a car to drive.

so by reducing overlap you gain at higher rpms? how does this work lol Gordon, its likely de-activated only when MAP figure is below xxxbar ASWELL as the rpm limit.

its all abit subjective here! you will increase burn temps by increasing say 20bhp, but whether that warrants a colder plug, I personally wouldnt think so. C220-250bhp NA (2.0/4v) and I would think you would have to start delving into controling heat ranges. But ive never dyno tested them...

No, a "race" engine will have higher Cr, therefore higher burn temps. So you want to run a cooler plug to dissipate electrode heat better...so as to avoid pre-ignition. If you dont, as said, you will be knocking back ign adv in order to reduce peak temps as a measure against det. Also a...

Its the only way to do it, as its such a specific area of performance tuning. So many variables which alter pulse effect, which cant be considered fully on a drawing board. Thats why theres no definitive answer alot of the time...it soley depends on the spec of the engine initially and what your...

labour to repair the current head would out weight replacing it with a second hand one.

there will definately be valve damage. cheapest thing to do would be just replace the head. where are you based....i can fix it or buy it lol

cherry isnt legal for road use btw whatsoever, EXCEPT for streetlight repair/fitting wagons, which can use it whilst driving between lamposts, but the second they are travelling the highway as a road vehicle, they have to use derv.

The fine and penalties for running on veggy oil (or mix) is the same as running on cherry...both are non-taxed fuels. You can get around the tax issue (and so legalities) of running on veggy, but you have to register as a business, and certain milaege/cost restricions are put in place.

cherry is cheaper!

MOST isnt good enough though! I really dont see the point in risking it...glovebox is best, and not as if its alot of extra work if you building a loom anyway.

With no rubber seals on the ecu box, I really dont understand why Omex would suggest it would be ok in an engine bay. I wouldnt mount it in an airtight box, you'll get condensation, and the same problems will arise.

Glad its looking promising...

Fitting it in the engine bay wouldnt be so bad IF it was properly secured AND dry...this obviously wasnt case here OR these problems wouldnt be problems. In any case, its not something I personally would do. Damp causes issues with any PCB, fact, as is the case here......

I put them in the glovebox usually if its a track car, or if its more of a road car I fit them in the OE position in the scuttle area.

above the gearbox??? Doesnt sound well protected at all. It only takes al ittle bit of damp to start corrosion on delicate PCB's. U could try cleaning it up with some solvent and a light abbrasive cloth..though I would be tempted to get it back to the supplier.

if it has areas of corrosion, then likely currents will be tracing across it...not good. Where has the ecu been located on the car?

Yup damp is a definate issue. If the ignition drivers get damp, or any part of the circuitary shorts out, it will cause issues. As above, dry it out, then spray it LIGHTLY with WD40, then make sure its located in a dry location (not in a sealed box as condensation builds up. Maybe even put some...

If youve no experience with port flow charecteristics, leave the ports (save maybe removing casting flash). Best bet is to have seats recut to alternative angles, by a trustable machine shop.