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yes. 15x6.5" alloys will take 195/45 tyres. Ford has got some 15x6 that WILL not take very friendly 195/45 tyres. Need to use an hammer to get them in place and wear is too uncertain, even has been tried different tyre pressures... no go. 15x7" is the best for 195/45 and slicks when going to TD.

What is the diameter of the exhaust pipe?

no problem at all..... its so simple (WTF?? I seem BenR on this one LOLLL dead easy :P) Just get calipers and bolts from the valver! buy good discs (valver/willy are the same 259x20.5mm) and good pads. Give it a good bleed, and ready to smoke. http://perception.no.sapo.pt/pics/powerdisc2.jpg...

hum.. I thought downpipe was the same as dump pipe. The pipe that comes from the turbo (exhaust/turbine side + wastegate if this one is not external) to the exhaust tube. so whats the difference?

decat... 75quid?? WTF??? its just a straight pipe!!!!! I have had one. It was done on a local exhaust shop... one pipe with 2 flanges welded on it 12quid. DONE!

Red16, I think your job is going the right way!!! some ppl just like to see the spare shining and mint, and then they buy it... I prefer to build it myself and look raw. The final work is what it counts. Power! engine bay is tight, so not much better can be done. Maybee ceramic coating the...

just a thing... by the money invested on going for a 2.0lts bottom, would not be better to keep the F7P but going to TBs and a wilder cam? Dont know the costs, but the F7P seems better for good power gains. Just get rid of the std TB. Just this thought.

you saying the rubber thing with the nut on the top?? if yes, it stays 4/5mm up. btw, the nut its a 21 size... dont need to force the damn thing. Dont know the torque thou... but who cares???

Lightweight battery hard to say... you always could use a smaller one like the ones used on professional racing. Carbon/fiberglass bonnet, already looked myself and nowhere to be found a suplyer. :( Lightweight alloys, I think that the superlegera are light enough. You can also try magnesium...

with your hands.

wait a minute. Im lost in here. On the second picture you can see that there is some piping of the exhaust manifold that does not go into the turbo. Its suposed to be like that? hum... Dont know if this has been already posted. Im in a hurry now.. Ill read it latter. :)

COSSIE!!! T4 on that b*****d soldier! MOVE IT! http://www.polo16v.com/RampaDaArrabida2003/15.jpg http://www.polo16v.com/RampaDaArrabida2003/16.jpg http://www.polo16v.com/RampaDaArrabida2003/17.jpg http://www.polo16v.com/RampaDaArrabida2003/18.jpg Some new photos from a Portuguese...

LOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL Has I said before (repeating myself sometimes gets annoying) BenR likes to get the engine idling at 7000rpm and hard cut comes somewhere around 15000rpm. He is a rpm addict. Go get an Honda ya b*****d!!! :P

eheh.. go cage! go safety! btw, also go on a diet to lose some weight. (even if you are weightless already). Cut your nails, shave all your hairy body, pee and dump and dont eat anything before racing. This will get you some weight of the car. :P

using the std caliper for a bigger brake kit its going to increase brake performance, but its going to give you more weight!!! If the car brakes good enough under heavy/nasty/trackday drinving, way waste money on it? besides, brake fading by heat can be taken care without bigger discs. Just...

ARGH!!!!!!!

I guess you need that spoiler... looking to the top speed, its better to know that it can corner at high speed. I prefer gay looking to going off-road into a tree :/ yeap, being a turbo car you can easily "breed" new more bhp. :)

once again eheh :P here it is the photos of my current front brake setup: Valver calipers ATE Powerdisc 259x20.5mm (willy/valver size) ATE pads All under 14" alloy http://perception.no.sapo.pt/pics/powerdisc2.jpg http://perception.no.sapo.pt/pics/powerdisc1.jpg...

who gives a f*ck!!!! WE WANT WE WANT POWER!!!!!!

better performance when looking at all rpm? since the valver lacks on power under 4500rpm. Increased torque? maybee because with smaller ports the inlet velocity would be higher on low rpm when comparing to the std valver head. coments? Valver bottom end to be used with valver std head, megane...

A539 are known from not so good handling on the wet. Even yokohama has admited this. P5000 dont know.

I use ATE PowerDiscs. I think they are excelent VFM. Never used any other "uprated" discs. There is not point of having any more grooves on the discs. this ones are enough, unless you are always on trackdays or rally. Pads yes, go for Ferodo DS2000 or even Mintex 1144. ATE ones are ok, noisy but...

If its the crank sensor (aka speed sensor): Dont think so!!!! The only thing that those sensors do is misleading the ecu. By this it will adv the ignition in all sites. You can adv your std crank sensor. I have and found out that its not that worth it. Its better to have a good ecu remap...

For better flow wouldnt be better to go first on a wilder cam? with some more valve lift. its better VFM.

what?!

Another TBs (for the valver) topic. Going over this topic again... I remember this: inlet manifold- can find one at chadil for 250€ Chadil also can suply a kit of inlet manifold+TBs+Trumpets for all F7 engine. Linkage, ecu+loom and air filter must be sorted my yourself. You can use std...

Dont know if this vid has already got here. http://gtrs172.free.fr/vid/Rs_Technomap.wmvhttp://gtrs172.free.fr/vid/Rs_Technomap.wmv What do you guys think? fast enough on reving? take a good look at the first 18secs of the vid. The lights on the dash are on because of another ecu being...

why is that?? I dont understand you guys sometimes. When someone knows what he is talking about you just point the finger and call him criminal! bahhhh

hum... the rt std ecu cuts at 6500rpm. No point of going up there since its a lazy engine and you will get better times on 0-60 if you upshift between 5500-6000rpm. reving every gear till the engine cuts will make you LOSE time!!! No point of letting that happen!!!!!! dont know if it kills...

but.. isnt the GTT calipers for 238mm discs??