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Didn't have it under braking but mine used to go really heavy going through shell at Oulton and then back to normal on exit. Also in tight right handers the car would accelerate on its own.

How was the ride comfort on cup suspension? Also what was the clutch firmness like, especially in heavy traffic?

Changed the back box for an upcoming MOT on the Mondeo ST which was a piece of piss. Dropped of the kerb ramps and ping, snapped front spring. Tried changing that and sheared the pinch bolt in the strut/hub carrier. Used hub now required. Both tie rods also needed replacing. On closer...

Just stick with the suspension you have, it'll be fine and if you can stiffen the rear shocks even better. Get yourself a set of front camber bolts and get the car aligned properly. A good start would be max negative camber either side with a smidge of toe out (-0.6mm or -0.06 degs either side)...

Standard discs in Brembo HC, Pagid OE or Mtec grooved/dimpled. Pads is all down to how you brake? PBS is a good all-round option albeit they need heat to bite properly. If on a budget and want cold bite, Mintex M1155 front and Pagid OE rears is a decent set up. Ferodo DS1.11 are the best.

Looks decent that mate. Only If I was in the market for a track car ?

Hope it's not serious mate and you can enjoy it having put all that wedge into it.

I made more splitting my Clio with a knackered engine than I would have selling it working mate, you just need to be patient and have another mode of transport. Going from your list above most items would move quickly.

Let see how they all get on when this winter really kicks in and i'm sailing past them all in a Skoda sporting a vagina with a massive wide on!

Maybe a charged and diff'd ep3? Still a car that's on my bucket list to own. Or what about a 250 cup...

If its the box again just strip for parts and get something else. Like yourself I loved mine but it was just a money pit in the end and had to go as I was sick of throwing money and time into it and I become bitter towards it. If something minor like James mentioned above then crack on and...

Never owned a decent RWD motor (don't count the i3 as RWD as it had more aids than Africa) but it's something that is defo on the horizon. First port of call would be a skid pan day to learn the limits and be able to control it on the limit. As mentioned above FWD there is always a get out of...

Probably whoever put in the cheapest tender price at the time, could be 1 of 20 manufacturers but you'd never know as they'd be Renault stamped. Just purchase a set of performance after market springs as they'd be cheaper than an OE blueprint set.

Yeah I wouldn't bother telling your insurance as it will probably cost you over £100 a day and the car just isn't worth that much if you bin it. Just strip for parts and buy another. Oh and get yourself AA cover as in my experience they will collect you from track if it goes t*ts up.

Looks decent that and is local to me. Think it would be tough punting that on with that many miles though. I'd prefer a lower mileage pre facelift if in the market.

As above just track the 1.2. Start of with taster sessions to give the car a shakedown to see what it needs (tyres, brakes, dampers springs, bushes etc) and 100% pay for a session of tuition as at 17 this will be invaluable for you to get the best from the car and yourself. Once you're happy...

Faulty level sensor on the rear beam maybe. Mine used to do it.

Put your postcode below for the nearest hunter system. -0.6 ° toe (negative) each side is decent for road and won't scrub the insides. Your camber could a bit off but as long as it's within -0.5 each side it's not to bad. If more get camber bolts and realign it...

Tried and failed to replace side lights on the Octavia. c**t of a job!

Just pull the sill covers off and have a poke around with a screw driver, should be apparent if its rusted badly. Presume its just a track car going off your avatar?

Its just surface rust on the disc/pad from rain, my old Clio and current Octavia does it every time it pisses down then dries up. Nothing to worry about. Just make sure you release it gently as it can knacker the pads especially if track rated pads.

Don't have an issue with mine being resistive. Let's just say it's not worth the additional £££ just to use your finger. Dan come and have a gander at mine if you're still not sure on the 8700.

Get it ordered Dan, saying that I sat in silence this morning for near 2 hours of rush hour traffic as 02 is down and the radio doesn't work on the unit. Got to know every squeak and rattle of the Skoda ...

We fitted the JB4 to my mates car on our dinner,really is a piece of piss.

Supertraker is also very good, although it gives toe in mm not degrees like hunter.

P-Zero's its on.

Having spoken to my mate in work yesterday with a JB4'd M135i he says they are utterly useless in this cold, wet weather, even at quarter throttle the car is all over the place. From a standing start in similar conditions he said you cannot get any traction what so ever and it just snakes about...

Fresh cup dampers, RARB, pair of camber bolts for the front and get it hunter/supertracker aligned. I ran Apex springs for around 10 track days and 2k road miles and they were decent, didn't find them overly firm for the road and being linear in design decent on track.

I've emailed Javelin to see what discount they can offer. I stated it would be a track in the middle of the country like Oulton, Donington or Cadwell so it's fair for all members. Also stated it would be either early spring or late Autumn so not to clash with CSF. If anyone is interested I'll...

That's a great idea, Javelin do discount on 'bulk buys' 15% off for spending £2000. Bet they'd do more for £5000 spend.