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Plenty VPN's on google play store...

Very cool! Did you get it on the scales at Oulton?

Have you check the vac pipe coming from the servo isn't kinked behind the engine, they can even melt...

There's worse things to spend your money on. I wouldn't strip it back to its shell or rewire the whole car personally as it's just not worth the cost and hastle. I'd make sure the chassis is sound, sort the rust on the body and do the rest you mentioned.

Could be a bargain for someone these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUNLOP-TYRES-03G-195-50-15-X-4/153270530169?hash=item23afa2b079:g:edYAAOSwabRb9Vl-:rk:3:pf:0

Falken tyres have got better and better over the last 10 years so expect the ZE310 to be decent as per the below reviews. I've got FK510 on the ST and they are fantastic for £60 a tyre in 225/40/18. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Falken/ZIEX-ZE310-EcoRun.htm

They already have a 200cel sports cat as standard, no point going 100cel for the money they cost. Get group n timing instead as this will give real gains.

That sounds like something has snapped, whatever it is it should be easy enough the detect.

Dash light decreased MPG Fuel smell in the cabin Raspy tinny sound No power increase MOT fail

Good shot that, show the aftermath going backwards onto the grass though ?

Aye agree with the EP3 box as well, got mine with less than 20k on the clock and 5 years and 80k miles later the box was still as solid as the day I bought it.

It'll be bushes of some sort, especially if uprated they don't like cold weather. Saying that neither do worn OE bushes. Wheels off job for a visual check and get your pry bar out to check for play and noises in all bushes and ball joints or take it somewhere with hunter alignment as this...

Haha bonkers! I thought my track 182 as a second car was a waste. Fair play though.

Forget the racing series and just use it as a track car as you say. Strip, remap, tyres and brakes and away you go. Loads of weird and wonderful cars out there these days, and if you can pedal you'll be nowhere near the slowest out on track, not that that'll matter as long as you're enjoying...

This is the reason I always give a receipt with a private sale with 'sold as seen' at the bottom and have them sign and date it.

Mine crunched into 3rd at high revs, try keeping a tad of throttle on changes they go much easier.

If a budget build then track tyres and pads so you don't get fade to ruin the experience thats assuming everything else on the car is fresh and its aligned properly. Then go do a track day in it, you'll soon know what it needs. I ran standard engine and suspension for around 10 days before I...

Did they allow you to mirror your daily policy ncb and add the Clio on a limited mileage policy?

Those B12's will rattle all that hard work loose in no time, lol.

Mtec dimpled/grooved are decent, used them on a few track cars now with no complaints and i'm pretty hard on brakes with aggressive pads. Pagid OE are also decent from ECP. Done 3 track days and 5k road miles so far and they still look new.

-2.5 each side and I didn't use the slots on the AST strut for more so reckon you should get -3 each side with camber bolts. That will be a nice balance for road and track.

Nah I used the PMS with my 4100's no issues whatsoever. I couldn't stomach the cost of the AST units just for a bit more camber, albeit they'll have better bearings.

Don't bother with a decat as its a PITA come MOT time, they make the cabin stink of fuel and they use more to the gallon....oh and they give you naff all gains in performance. Group N timing and induction kit will give half decent gains for not a lot of money, or if the belts need doing throw a...

So just a mapped meg engine and everything else standard 1.2 Clio?

Think he originally mentioned fitting a diff before even buying the car, that's around £2k. Suspension is expensive from Birds but cheaper options are available but you'll get a good chunk of that back, same once removing the diff if going with the M option. LCA's are a few hundred quid but...

Diff and suspension with M4 goodies like LCA's and it will be a very precise bit if kit.

@MarkCup how you finding heel and toe shifts with that full/long (not sure the term) throttle pedal?

Yeah front bolts mate. I had around -2.5 each side. Adjustable top mounts will give you more as well if needed.

2:05 Nice. That should be doable in the VRS with a bit more power, front camber and balls ?

Yep that was the plan mate. Still an ambition to crack a 2min lap around there, not in the Skoda though, lol.