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12.23mm

i didnt say there was.... i was quoting that there is more to it than "matching gaskets". ive actually stopped using the gasket on the head face. what i now do is match perfectly the two bodies using engineers blue, then use carefully positioned RTV sealer to joint the two pieces.

matching the opening is easy enough IF you have the right tools....a dremmel certainly isnt what u want. but there is more to it than simply matching gaskets....when i work them, i do so a good couple of inches into the casting...this sort of area could easily cause detrimental flow patterns due...

i would suggest fitting a megane/willaims 2.0 bottom end with either the 1.8 head that came out of the car, or preferrably perhaps, a williams head....in either case with higher spec cams and some headwork, then a remap of the ecu to suit you rspecification. it all depends on your budget. pm me...

u can run the 2.0 bottom end on stock 1.8 managment if you so wished.

u'll need the immob/plip module (and PCB in the key) that plugs into the loom behind the speaker on the driverside console if your changing engine type.

its more likely that the soft ally platforms are damaged, rather than the body of the damper... you should be able to get replacements.

big-end bearing shells by the sound of it....hence dropped compression also.

I charge £350 for a straight swap, that would leave £450 from his £800 budget...if u scout around u can pick up a willy lump for £400 with not too much hassle.

havnt built my rolling road yet matey....

change it for a williams lump is the only sensible option.

the thing is with a generic "set-up" like everyone keeps suggesting, is what are they setting it to?? nothing more than arbitary figures, that may not suit you/your driving style. obviosuly it depends how involved you want to get, but the only real option for a decent set-up is on-track testing...

its noticable yes...esp in warm weather. stock airbox, foam filter, and modified cold air-feed is the best option.

if u know what ur doing, and have the equipment, its ok. easier on the likes of Nobles, ariel Atoms, Caterhams (proper cars basically!) as the weight distribution is nearer even.

why do your driveshafts rub on the chassis??

lol see williamsclio.. u want to lower the platform to lower ride height. also, if ur corner-weighting, u need to disconnect ARB.

i take it u mean coefficient of friction... no, i dont sorry!

Dont just take it to a "garage", you want someone that can do a proper set-up...ideall RH's, then camber, then toe. the problem is they all have a knock on effect on each other...so you cant just adjust one, as then other settings need tweaking. it also helps if the people doing it understand...

I have never had an personal experience with GDI, but i have it on good authorities their reputation is flawed, for various reasons. Why is it everytime there is a thread like this...about problems with quality of workmanship and end product, that the thread gets locked/deleted?? Surely it...

The only person i can and will suggest (as i dont have my rolling road yet) is in Carlise (as i think weve discussed before?).

MarkM The ecu itself shouldnt cause ur problems, its how its set-up that will. poor idle with accesories on sounds like poor idle control, jerky off throttle sounds like poor mapping (or maybe innacurate TPS calibration), same goes for cold start...it should be fine. My T.B mk1 drives...

its not the best, but its ok.....no worse than a factory ecu being mapped with the same data to suit thousands of engines of the same "type". this is assuming that each install is EXACTLY the same, and more importantly, that the map data being programmed is of a suitable quality in the first...

LOL BTW, checked today, its 30mm...not 32mm!

Lol

genious!!!

thermite...now we're talking...how good are u at combustion control then ben?!?!

lol u jew!! does that answer the question?!

lol n.p's

LOL ...hmmm.....sure its 32mm...if not its 30mm...defo not 31!!!

aye 20mm would probs do...u want a nice long wrecking/pry bar to lever the wishbones down. dont need hub puller. 99.9% sure its 32mm