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Sounds like a UPC Issue then with the clicking sounds. Have you checked the main fuses under the bonet in front of the battery to be sure one or more haven't blown or been damaged?

Wow, that's a serious job list... and why was it all needed? Sorry for the questions btw Steering angle is a parameter that is reported back to the Engine Management & ABS so the ESP program can function correctly. If it was faulty it wouldn't stop the steering firing up and the fact the...

What has happened to the car to make you think it's Angle Sensor related?

Even once it has been reconfigured you will still need the SRS ECU connected to the CANBUS otherwise the clockset won't receive a signal and the warning light will be on (Which is an MOT failure)

Yes, it needs to stay in and connected otherwise the dash light will stay lit

What codes are present?

As Fred said above, it's also the most common f'k up when replacing rear brakes.

3 to 4 hours

It's fuel injection, pumping the pedal won't do anything. You need to start proving that essentials have power and earth's im afraid.

The car will start and run even without the MAP Sensor (The ECU will go to a known "Safe" all be it governed parameter). Saying that though, the same can be said for the throttle setup and with either hte pedal or throttle body disconnected the vehicle *should* still start but hold a fixed...

Pop in if you can Chris, we're in Long Eaton www.diamondmotors.co.uk Mick

New aux belt kit to I hope?

A damaged reluctor ring wouldn't cause the light to come on and stay on at ignition... in that instance it would more than likely only illuminate when the wheel was rotating and the generated waveform was deemed faulty. This is more like a incoherence issue due to a faulty sensor/sensor...

Re: car not starting , with stop light, oil pressure light on and immobiliser light s Disconnecting the battery does not clear the fault codes. What've you've done here is created a bad connection so remove the battery terminals, clean them up and re-attach them correctly. Mick

We get dodgy car traders come in all the time asking to do it for them and they think we're stupid... yeah, we'll de-configure something so you can sell it on to some poor mug who thinks everything is right. I don't mind reconfiguring for the replacement of standard equipment with aftermarket...

Chances are Chi, if it's on the Megane II, that it's to do with drivers airbags 1 and 2... so it'll need a clock-spring assembly which is around £50 second hand or £130 new. Please don't de-configure this just fix the actual problem.

Injector(s) then Unplug them one at a time until you find the one that doesn't alter the already poor running.

Anything over 10mph would've been enough tbh so you've got a current problem. You've deffo not done something silly like force a connector in back-to-front?

The ABS system is self adapting so if a problem is declared "present" at startup the lights will remain on until the system detects it has been resolved. I am assuming you've taken it for a drive and the lights still remain on?

Check the connections in the arch areas then matey. You may have got one not plugged in properly