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Pete, You put a post up asking for help with an "unknown electrical issue" then proceed to put up a list of just about every ignition related item under the bonnet stating it may be one of these but you don't actually post a description of the symptoms which you've encountered. I'm good...

Deffo electrical but could be anything... needs looking at to say i'm afraid.

Dash top off and make sure it's correctly secured. Sounds like it isn't

Yes

Get it plugged in. Possibly a fault due to inconsistent speed signal via CAN

Mike rentec should be more than capable for this yes

Re: Spare Key Transponder > Car Alarm / Immobiliser / Central Locking Interaction Pro Depends where you're based but it needs to go to someone who can code keys

Reg isn't turning up anything on Renault WVS lookup but if it has "IDE" on the side bullets then it has what we call classic "IDE-AIDS" In layman terms the Fuel Pressure Regulator is failing when it gets hot so is seizing up internally allowing the fuel pressure to creep up without control...

Does the "Steering Wheel" light on the dash come on, go off and stay off when you start the car?

Re: Spare Key Transponder > Car Alarm / Immobiliser / Central Locking Interaction Pro As above, it's most likely unassigned to a vehicle but CLIP will tell you this.

I'm going to say its a 2.0 16v F5R IDE - Please confirm If unsure PM me the reg

Anywhere in or around Leicester will be good for me.

Yep! It's not a plated diff like the Gripper so doesn't *really* need anything special. Just put a GL4/GL4+ in, stop mincing about and driver the fookaz wheels off.

On the TLX/PKX/NDX boxes I use TransELF 'NFJ' only and haven't had issues. Others are cheaper and *supposedly* better but if you stick to what the book says you can't go wrong.

Check the length of the two front seat anchors. If one is shorter than the other it has fired. Diags will be your best bet chap

Plugs should be NGK PFR6E-10 and to timesert the head would need to come off. Helicoil Vs Timesert argument has been done to death on here and on the Internet in general. My personal position - I hate Helicoils because they're pikey

Sounds like they've been put in but not torqued up. You may be okay but ideally it needs a timesert (i hate helical but this would work to).

Unlucky but you better check the others are secure to before the same thing happens. Have you tried putting a plug in?

Bugger, not good. Number 3 by any chance?

Not common per say but known to happen from time to time. Any updates yet?

TRW make the ePAS rack I believe

Spark plug then - Check its not pulled the thread out of the head to as it may need time-serting

The "Other" brands tend to be LHD or EPAS racks. As above, most are SMI

Date, time and location dependent I'll turn up for a chinwag

Take it to see Dan@SJM - It needs a proper fault finding session on CLIP firstly to check all parameters are functioning correctly (Yes there are other bits of kit out there but non are 100% trustworthy as dealer level kit). This isn't the same as plugging it in and seeing if there are any fault...

Does it start and rev okay? Engine sounds normal or like a tank? Sounds like either a gearbox or driveshaft/CV issue at the minute

100% text book crankshaft sensor failure.

I have to run one in my car for this very reason even though it has no SRS units installed... the light is there and the car had them from factory so the light must function accordingly. Just comply mate

A Cup will take around 2.5hrs and you can wait/watch if you like but the longer we talk the longer the job takes. Mick

The second unit *should* (when the CAT is at temp and when it is functioning correctly) will be stable at around 400mV. The pre-CAT should be constantly switching