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It could've been the nicest example In the country but with an attitude like that would you want to deal with a c**t like that?

Birchdown

Check your battery connections are tight and clean but it could be pure coincidence that this issue came up at the same time.

Unlikely to be the UCH and more likely to be either the control stalk(s) or the UPC

There are only two wires but the plug is a generic 3 pin type by Bosch so ignore the blank.

Tell him to read the f**king manual then because there's an entire page devoted to just that! There's no way the timing will be right or would've been right when manually rolling the pulleys to check with that dephaser. Improper job done I'd say.

It needs looking at properly and a leak off test carrying out I'm afraid

Best guess is an injector(s) fault

Make sure it is a genuine Renault item or there will be tears

First one is a non-gen "sport" CAT and the second is an original Renault CAT

In short no! Going by genuine parts:- On the Phase 1 there is only one type. On phase 2 it's a bit more involved as the 172 without Cup add-ons are one type then the 172 Cup is a second. The 182 non-Cup is a third and i believe the 182 Cup packed vehicles makes a fourth.

No but speak to Adam at Renault in Wolverhampton and he'll sort you out.

Buy new, they're cheap

Yep, need space and staff these days

I can't do anything this week I'm afraid as I'm moving in to the new workshop (not fun)

LOL yes because that makes perfect sense. He's wrong

Correct, speedo sender boxes fit all.

I've seen a few where the bolt head sieze in James and have had to be hit with the impact gun to rattle them loose. As Bigash says above, the disc needs removing from the stub axle to access the bolt heads. Then just hit the old one out and replace it with a new one. It is worth noting that x3...

Are you sure you are using the correct injector for your car?

Is it miss firing or not running right? It's easy to blame timing over the phone without seeing the car.

Is this a road legal car?

Brake fluid is STOP plus the Brake warning light. If the oil light is coming on then it could be a faulty oil pressure switch (not that uncommon) or it could be a genuine low oil pressure fault. Ideally it needs the oil pressure mechanically testing or you could just gamble on a switch as...

Seconded Anthracite is too dark IMHO. A nice light grey with a satin clear coat would look rather nice but a simple silver with a high gloss clear coat will look so much cleaner.

If it was just one injector I wouldn't worry too much about the C2i not being coded but it shouldn't cause rough running. Sounds like injector 3 is the issue.

I think the Cup has a Seat position sensor which will throw the SRS light on if you don't leave it in place. Apart from that it's all gravy

Honestly, just buy a 1.6 as its genuinely not worth converting the 1.2 and your insurance will still go up.

7daNm = 70Nm .7daNm = 7Nm

Glady... wake up, go for a run, buffet breakfast, gamble/drink, go shooting, gamble and drink more... I could live that life

Surprised you didn't offer him £400 for it though lol... slipping in yer old age ;)

Measure it at the alternator and if it's stable at 14.1-14.3v then this is fine but if it's around the 14.7 and above then this is getting toward an over voltage and possibly an issue.