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£590 with the VAT for belts and dephaser at present using genuine Renault parts

1 - New key blade if you can remove the broken blade or new locks. I'd try and remove the old one though if you can. 2- Central locking is working indicated by the indicators flashing. You'll need to check that the UCH is sending the actuation command to the locks and also make sure the locks...

I know, talk about milking it

Unplug the CTS then but I have never heard of the fuel pump control circuit being governed by engine temp (ever). Just remember the Mk1 has X2 CTS inputs (one for the dash and a second for the ECU)

I can't condone the use of them but the Renault manuals are available to download or even buy on eBay... They will help you out a great deal.

I still have flashback nightmares about your car Karl when ever a LY R26 comes in

The fuse box schema is on the rear of the cover

It's normal on the older type breather. Get a later tube type from a 182 and you'll cure it.

What Omex is it? I'd imagine it's a CAN interface

Silver lining... nice new exhaust now on greatly improving grin factor when driving. I still think you need to clean it as I hate dirty cars lolz

No bother I'm only doing VAT returns and an R26 A/C issue tomorrow so you'll be saving me!

It's always a risk you take. You've had enough of them to know the score but sometimes you advise in the interest of the vehicle and longevity but the customer thinks you're just trying to up - sell. Did you buy it?

Was it me? LoL It's a tricky one as I genuinely don't know the car or the customer. I know I always check them and try to get the customer to budget for the dephaser. It's rare we do them these days without replacing them though. In fairness though it could have been fine at the time of the...

Sounds like you've got a power feed the wrong way around... Read the manual carefully and check everything. Did you need a patch lead? If so it may be an issue in there.

Scott as mentioned above and failing that PC Autos. Both have done work for me in the past and don't mess around with shoddy work. That doesn't mean they're gonna do it for £100 though as proper paint costs! PC Autos also did a repair and paint job for a customer on a LY R26 and the job was...

Simple enough task on these cars tbh. I would advise you source the bodywork manual though which details exactly how this is done as plastic breaks and from experience isn't cheap to replace with new.

The Mk1 is extremely simplistic (unless it's a Ph3, Renault got sneaky with those). 1 - Disconnect the plug to the fuel pump. Then give it a direct +12v and a good ground by using something like a test probe. Does the pump run? No - Replace pump. Yes - See 2 below. 2 - Isolate the circuit and...

I love these issues. Normally simple if you just get all Julie Andrews on them - first question (of many)... ... check the fused link in the + battery terminal. Is it intact visually and using a volt meter does it have a good +12v either side of the link? Mick

Lambda related... its a guess but have it plugged in. I bet the heater is shagged in the sensor

Hard to say really as you are in the best position to check it out. Does sound like a connection issue

Just lay off full throttle changes as I'm sure Agency won't consider that as "normal" use.

Drive it as normal

You need an N3 UCH

Also (just for info purposes) it's not as simple as just putting the genuine tooling in, changing the belt, locking it up and removing the tooling. When you do it like that it's probably a 95% chance the cam setting bar will not re-engage without some persuasion. We've had one in recently that...

Genuine pump?

I've seen white casings on ph1 JC5's before to. Check the code if you're worried but it's nothing to worry about really.

They're both as bad as one another for "tuning" I'm afraid. NA tuning is just expensive for not much gain. FI tuning is better result for the money but more likely to shaft the gearbox. F7 in a Mk2 would take some effort to make work depending on variant used especially when the F4 will just...

Was it the newer blue item with the new wiring loom section? If not, fit this

If there's no fuel to the injectors then it isn't so either your description is wrong or you've got a damaged/kinked fuel line... my money is on the description. Do you mean there's no fuel coming out of the injectors when you turn the ignition?

They are questions anyone knowing what they are buying will ask. The guy is a Nimrod