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Should do if the ph1 was a twin barrel cat with two lambdas

Price?

Is it possible to just unbolt these and swap them over? Or do you have to swap full bootlids?

A free fix is always the BEST fix!! Happy to help

Have a wiggle with the top engine mount

Weird as f**k. Only other thing i can think of would be exhaust manifold gasket. they make a ticking noice when they crack

Sure its not the aux tensioner?

Can this be done easily? Anything else need to come off bar the bolts for the sump? And I assume it's sealant to put back on, no gasket?

Just bought one, wanted to know if the trottle cable made much difference as opposed to FBW on the phs2

I am sure a 98 ron map will give it a bit of a boost, but with the new version, can the chavvy pops n bangs be added? Also, does this raise the rev limit to 7800?

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?659662-Single-DIN-triple-gauge-holder-oil-pressure-gauge ;)

So I can slap some later arms on my phs1 and that will increase the castor? That simple? What's this about the subframe though, does that mean they will not fit?

PM me up the costs dude

Winner winner, chicken dinner

I am torn. Not 100% sure whether to get one for my Ph1 or not. I need both new plate, but cannot decide between standard and small.

I was considering replacing with some exotic private plate..... but it's money down the drain.

I need to get a new pump too, but need to look and see which one I need first

Just a few snaps I took whilst having the belts done on the Ph1 Seeing that on taking off the cover did NOT instill confidence in the previous belt change. However, on getting the cap covers off... awesome, It was timed up correctly, despite the receipt not being from a "specialist"...

I think I am going to go order a set after reading the reviews. It's gonna raise my Ph1 a little, but I suppose I am going to have to accept that..... or have my spine fused

I took my door strips off the phs1 and lovingly smothered them with Autoglym bumpersnot, to compliment the nice cleaning job the Lithuanians did yesterday at the carwash

UCH problem possibly?

Mayo could be condensation from not running much, but if its overheated, that doesnt sound good. They dont usually let the HG go on the F4R

Just because its not been done by a "specialist" doesnt mean the timing is out. For the price of a few cam caps, you can check it yourself, its easily done. Get the inlet off and check the plugs before ordering any though. Failing that, take it somewhere reputable (if you arent confident...

woooooooooooooooo, how much at the stealers?? LOL. There was some on eGay at £7ish, but I assumed these were universal shite and not even worth a look. So are the front and rear pumps seperate?

Cheers for the info Dan. Will give Renault a call tomorrow then

it takes an ages to get water out the back pipe too, so it's definitely the pump

Yep, was just about to suggest that when reading through. Front sensor is knacked.

Whhooooaaaaa, now we are getting into big money territory. Did HE do the belts, or have them done somewhere? Best plugs are NGK PFR6E-10. Standard leads are fine as long as they arent torn/worn.

Do you know if it has the correct plugs in it? Whip it off and have a look. They may need replacing. A good service with new filters can usually help. Failing that, might be a coil pack or lead breaking down, so best to check the cheaper options first