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It'd be the cracks that worried me more than the thickness.

Could also be a knackered shock. Problem is it could be tons of things but there's a list to start with ;)

What are your toe and camber settings? Is the car lowered as if it's had a big drop this could be bump steer. What tyres are you running and are they the same on both sides of the axle? Any play in the wheels, e.g. Worn bearings?

Don't know about settings, but PMS do a bump steer kit which isn't too expensive

Came to about £240 for the lot - both wishbones with balljoints and powerflex polybushes for the rear beam and front ARB. Definitely worth shopping around as prices seem quite variable.

For what it's worth I've just done a suspension refresh on mine, OE shocks, Cooksport springs, new OE wishbones and I polybushed the front ARB bushes and the rear beam bushes. Camber bolts on the front. Already had the whiteline ARB fitted. I know I could go faster on track with a stiffer...

Yes you'll need shims if you want more rear camber, but you might not. It's a very individual thing, you might find you are happy with the rear grip you've got already. The important thing is that the geo is right, I'd sort the shocks out, fit the camber bolts, get the ARB on and then get it...

My finger accidentally slipped on the Buy It Now button, twice. So mine is on the way too :)

Reduces rear body roll and understeer. Great mod. Not 100% sure it's a whiteline but the effect is the same. http://ears.co.uk/motorsport/anti-roll-bars/4031-whiteline-brr10z-anti-roll-bar-18mm-clio.html

It was a bloody good day :)

Probably just a cockup. You could contact MID and discuss it with them, you may find your insurer just hasn't updated the database yet.

Me too, they're a bit different, should certainly give the brakes room to breathe too. Tyre fitters messed up the balancing though, hideous vibration at over 50. Give them their due, when I took it back they rebalanced them for free without a murmur and it's all good now.

Yes to both :)

All done :) Front camber is -2.23 and -2.15, front toe -'8 both sides so -'16 total Rear toe is a bit to c**k after all the changes at '18 and '2 but I can sort that later with some shims, I want to space the wheels out a bit more anyway. Car drives really well after all the changes, I'm going...

8200257956 And ...957 is what I ordered for mine and they have the extra castor

It's in for a total suspension refresh. Nothing major then :)

Sounds like it should do the trick if the problem is that it won't boot into Windows. The hard drive isn't dead as such, there's just most likely some corruption on there. While you're at it maybe upload the pics to a cloud service like OneDrive? You get 15Gb free and if you link it to her...

Thanks, don't know why I didn't think of ratchet straps. I've ordered some. Trolley jack can go behind the passenger seat.

If the weather is looking a bit mixed I'm going to be taking a spare set of wheels and a trolley jack to trackdays with me. Thing is, the rear of the car is stripped, so how do I carry them safely and securely? I imagine a cargo net using the existing fixing points is the way to go but...

Yeah you're right, the 2118's are rally wheels. I wouldn't say these are especially light, I've not got anything to weigh them with though.

I got them from www.alloywheels.com - I actually ordered the silver ones but they phoned up and said they'd take three to five days but they had one set of the black ones on the shelf so would I like those for the same price. Wasn't really fussed about the colour, just wanted some decent wheels...

Oooh, sorry, but the original halogens every time for me. As long as you like them that's the main thing though, looks a tidy install.

That's more than I'm doing ;) I'm leaving the engine and dogbone mounts. These beauties arrived yesterday, just wanted a decent set of cheap used wheels for the track but ended up picking these up brand new for £275. ET 35 so I might look into some spacers.

Definitely go that route IMO. They're probably not aware it's so cheap and easy to replace the ecu.

Interesting, I was thinking about the track rod ends but hadn't considered the inner track rods. Checking a bit further it seems I really should have :) Steering rack bushes are cheap and have probably never been done. Looks like I'm ordering a few more new bits. ARB is already on, balljoints...

I'm going to leave the rear camber. I'll give the car -2 degrees negative camber at the front and see how I go. I'm changing too much in one go in terms of suspension and tyres to expect to hit the sweet spot first time out. The suspension refresh and tyres will change the way she drives...

What have you replaced so far? Any signs of tracking or arcing on the HT leads? How old are the plugs? How old is the coil?

Mine's standard at the moment but once it's on the CookSports am I right in thinking that will take the camber a little more negative? I'm in two minds about whether to put the rear camber plates on or not, they'd probably take it to something in the region of -2 to -2.5 negative rear camber...

No, it will fail if the seats are there without the belts.

Just been doing a load of readings about geo setup, talk about a dark art! I think I'm going to go for normal road toe settings but add some extra negative camber, use the 1 degree plates on the back to get close to 2.5 and set the front to 2.5. Anyone got any comments on that? Was quite...