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Basically the valve is there and plumbed in to the system but the rod that connects it to the rear beam (which alters the bias based on rear ride height) is not there or connected so it's constantly at MAX flow. What does tend to happen on the 172 Cup though is this bias valve seizes up, usually...
As Chip said above these engines vary so much and mileage is really not a good indicator of condition either (I've seen ring seal issues on sub 60k cars yet my 164k unit is still going strong). If you're really serious about spending money on that engine to extract more power I'd suggest you...
Then that's your problem... inconsistent values between the two pedal tracks. You need to scope the two tracks and see if its a spurious signal (Pedal fault most likely cause) or values out side expected ranges (Most likely due to a wiring or connection fault)
Mick
Just helps pay for the time when Steve with his "my mate down he pub can fix it for pennies" comes knocking looking for a hand out ("Come on, you plug it in and thats it"... well you buy one then **** knocker!)
I think what Tony was trying to say was scare it with the sight of a hammer and then check the connections at the horn itself (In the NSF wheel arch area) as they are prone for getting crudded up which causes your problem.
Then again, he may have just been trying to see if you'd actually take a...
Something obviously not right with the stereo circuit then AJ. Remove the wiring and then check the cars loom is functioning correctly with the aid of a multi-meter.
At cranking speed on the K9K the fuel pressure will be more than safe enough to open the injector union and you only "crack" them open a smidgen till you see fuel. I don't think the pressure regulation program will allow it to run anyway as it will detect the general pressure loss at the main...
Keyless belts aren't anything new Fred Kay, Ford also use them on the Zetec petrol engines and the aux tensioner may cost a fortune if purchased anywhere other than Renault but as of yesterday a 197 aux kit is around £48
An independent inspection shouldn't invalidate your warranty as the belt has snapped... no court in the land would accept that as a reason to rule in the garages favor. Have you spoken to the guys that did the belt change yet? (Note I said "Spoken" and not "Shouted at")
The switch has an internal latch which holds it in the required position. You can replace the switch if you like with a new one from Renault but I would personally just pull the switch to bits, bend the flat spring slightly and then rebuild it.... works everytime!
This is a 197 though and tensioner failures are not as common as they are on the 172/182... belt kit still needed changing though at the time of the timing belt and i'm leaning towards Freds summary of the situation in that the initial garage has ballsed the job
They are spring loaded yes but that has no bearing on thee switches two contact latches being open or closed. The devil with these switches are in the setting up
Solid red light on = Key recognised and authorised to start car but a network issue is prohibiting it from starting - 100% NOT key or Imob related
Normally a broken wire somewhere on the KLine/CAN but can sometimes be After Ignition relay related to. Really needs decent diagnostics on it to...