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Only on the early PH1's can you do this. All other's require removing the centre heatsheild.

You want the rears to be harder than the fronts to cut down on understeer

Or torque them up too much which is what I did.

Would have to be pretty hefty clips to catch IMO.

The clips shouldn't fall off if they are fitted properly

The reason that part is not fitted to the car is that it does not have abs. Fitting the part could cause your rear wheels to lock up and end up in a hedge. Best thing to do IMO is go and get it MOT'd in another garage that knows what they are doing and then go claim your money back from the...

Do what I did for the centre console and mask the inside of the car and rub it down and respray in situ. Much easier than removing the whole lower dash but you wont be able to use the car for a few days. It was well worth the effort in my opinion though.

Top it up with grease first. A jubilee clip will be fine.

After a think I'm not sure it would be the coil pack as that would affect the whole rev range. Could be an engine sensor, fuel pump, blocked fuel filter etc. Have you tried a search?

I didn't. The jubilee was my special tool

Also Rubbish this is the real explanation: 172 5k kick by BenR 2006 By no means is the 5k kick the result of any mechanical/electronic chance withing the engine system, whether that be mapping paremeters or valve timing. I think to fully understand, a base understanding of the operating...

Would probably wait until the weekend. They are not an evening job. Especially the upper gearbox mount which can be a right pain in the behind!

VVT switches at 1800rpm from memory. The 5k kick has nothing to do with VVT. I'm not sure what the OP's fault could be maybe the coilpack?

I put a 90mm jubilee clip around the spring and tightened it up. Worked a treat.

First time i did them I did them f**king tight through ignorance!! They managed to last for 20k though. Hoping the latest set last quite allot longer than that!

90nm but most seem to go for 100nm

Mines started doing the opposite where is takes ages to drop. Could that be an ICV

1.T_2_the_C - Flamer - 52k 2.Bazzon/Barron - Racing blue ITB - 90K 3.Russ_16v Black - 131k 4. Ianeire - Iceberg - 103k 5. Irish import 6. Irish import 7. Irish import 8. Irish import 9. Irish import 10. Irish import 11. Terry172 - Titanium - 73k 12. Andy@birchdown Exclusive 100k 13...

I had this last week. I ended up having to replace the temperature sensor.

The flat bit to the left of the number 2 is normally where the ICV is. The actual connector that your highlighting for the number 2 isn't on the PH1 inlet IIRC.

every 12k

ph1s have an idle control valve fitted to the inlet where your number 2 is on that picture i expect not having one could be the source of your problems.

http://www.cliosport.net/content/guides/fubar/fag_lighter_wiring.pdf

West bound at around 7.50 this morning. We had some fun before I came off at the Swindon Junction. Anyone on here?

Sounds exactly like mine. They all run rough on idle so thats normal. I'm currently trying to figure out if mine is the dephaser or a sticky lifter. ive been told to disconnect the dephaser solenoid and see what difference that makes but nobody can confirm what difference I'm looking for!!

Can anyone else confirm what rich-6 has said?

Thats what I thought but I wanted to check

Are you talking about the right solenoid as the thread was originally about the dephaser one but seems to have switched to the carbon canister one!! I don't have a carbon canister so I know its not that thats making the noise

Its by the oil filler cap. The thing is people have told me to unplug it to see if it makes a difference but nobody has explained what difference I should be looking for!!

I still have this annoying tapping sound. Its not the injectors as its a different noise. Does anyone know what unplugging the solenoid should achieve as I definitely want to confirm its the dephaser before getting the belt done 20k early.