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No I checked it at the last oil change to clean it up and it was fine (I didn't see if the rubber was already breaking, honestly) but it was clean so I think it doesn't really filter, that's what I mean!
Compared to the K&N I had on the other car or to the usual paper filters that come out of...
Yes, the rubber strips was cutted. I had a K&N cotton filter on the mini for years with no problem at all...and that was filtering dirt, insect etc.
I think I'll stick to paper oem filter from now as I don't remember any cotton filter for the RS and the foam ones seems useless.
I change it when I bought the car a few years ago...now it started buzzing again.
I removed, cleaned with a toothbrush, tapped, sprayed it with air and with wd40...no results.
I guess I just need a new one?
The sad thing is, if I could fit it turned 90° or 180° on the curved pipe, it would be...
As I'm buying a used set, I know that as the shocks get old you can turn them stiffer to compensate the wear.
I'm wondering what's the life expectancy before they fail, and if they do, how much will it cost me to refurbish them?
A few days ago I removed the airfilter to see if it was dirty...well it was all broken at the two longer side edges and was sagging inside the airbox. I fixed it with metal clips and glue and I'm ordering a paper filter from Renault.
Also, I never found much dirt on it, so I suspect my engine...
I don't think it's tracking, if that was the case the wheels would just stay a fixed angle away from straight all the time!
I'm pretty sure is casued by the rack bushes.
Yes, I agree 15° is a lot...mine is about 5-8° and it does it in both directions. I'm going to replace shocks, springs and top mounts and make the steering bushes stiffer (if I can with the trick I said before) and see how it goes.
The local Renault dealer told me that is caused by worn steering rack bushes...and suggested an DIY solution, putting sand paper between the rubber mount and the rack.
I'm perplexed about this, but I think it's worth a shot..
If you're down to a bit of manual labor, get some sand paper, sand discs for the drill, metal filler and get to work. When you're done bring them to a paint shop and get them sprayed. I did mine for 50 euros of both material and spraying.
I've driven a few 500s in different states of tune.
Standard is disappointing coming from a RS, even an old one like mine. Driving position is very high, the car is bumpy and the steering doesn't offer any feel.
The engine is brisk but i wouldn't say is a fast car, more like a Twingo RS than a...
Tom was it a brake dyno or a intertial dyno?
With a good brake dyno with sensors etc only very hot days matter, small differences ar perfectly compensated.
Do you have the charts?
So it's just the standard 135 bhp with a remap? I think those values are very plausible. To go beyond 170 bhp you need a good ehxuast, the downpipe with a decat or metallic cat is the most important bit.