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Agreed. what we need is a HAYNES manual ..... where someone actually DOES it .... while writing the manual ... ..... still I am happy to have some kind of manual .... thanks to this site :smile:

Agreed. what we need is a HAYNES manual ..... where someone actually DOES it .... while writing the manual ... ..... still I am happy to have some kind of manual .... thanks to this site :)

There are two different procedures .... one for a simple cambelt change and another when camshaft pulleys are changed ... In the second case (my case) the cambelt is first tensioned with all pulleys loose(~1mm). The belt is tensioned and then turned WITHOUT turning the cams or crankshaft (TDC...

Can anyone advise on torque setting for the thermostat housing .... it's currently on at 12Nm ..... same as camcover ... but no idea of the correct setting ????

I've just looked at the cambelt setting procedure (10th time) and the crankshaft pulley needs to spin freely for the initial setting of the cambelt tension ...... but only when changing the camshaft pulleys .... not sure it is essential ... but clearly it would not be possible if the crankshaft...

Plan to attach the whole area with brake cleaner - from camshafts down to crank and the three main pulleys themselves …… I've ordered some chemical 'decap' agent to dissolve the water pump gasket …… it's REALLY HARD and there is no really access to HACK it all off without doing something (or...

one step closer …… see attached improvised puller + a squirt of WD40 and it's off …… simple clean-up a refit to do ….. then …. … just the old water pump gasket to deal with (get off block) and we're set for fitting the belts :)

tried that last night and almost snapped one of the screws off !!! ... think I need to find some stainless steel screws ....... is WD40 going to help ???

so limited pulling power ….. so what ….. tighten it up 'somewhat' and then hit it with a copper hammer ???

I am quite amazed to hear that there is no key in that slot … seems to be the obvious thing to do …. OK so I need a puller … should not be too difficult to do when my 'mate' brings my drills back … the holes ARE 2.5mm or 3mm max!!

TDC_setting1.jpg

I'll take that as a joke :) … there is no way that is going to fit in the space I have and the only attachment points are 2x 2.5mm holes and 2.5mm screws are very easy to break !!! …. see TDC_setting1.jpg

I considered that and did get an engine offered on here (thanks Bloke) ….. but preferred the devil I know to the one I don't….. plus half the cost is the belt kits and alignment tools that would be required anyway ……. I got my head recon done for 260 quid incl. collection service ….. after that...

That makes sense … it means that the valves that are almost closed on 2 & 3 at bottom dead centre will be causing some resistance on the cam position so the cams are only just coming on/off those valves which is what I'm seeing …… the cam alignment tool is IN …. the TDC pin is IN :o) I just...

Bizarrely ... I could not find a false TDC when I had the head off ..... when I could clearly see the pistons at TDC TDC_setting2.jpg

At TDC should all of the valves be fully closed ..... I am bit worried about manually winding the pistons into the new valves ..... The cams do not want to sit in the cam tool setting position as if the valve springs are pushing them slightly off alignment. To set the cam tool, I will need to...

but you can avoid that error by checking the crankshaft position !!?? ... plus when I had the head off I could only find ONE fully locked TDC position .. perhaps I am lucky with the balancing holes ???

getting it off would also allow access to the crankshaft seal ... could then change that as well since it's in the kit of parts ..... in for a penny and all that .....

Budgie ..... any tips for getting it off without damaging it or the casing ..... it's pretty solidly stuck on !!! There are two screw holes in it ..... see picture TDC_setting1.jpg in previous post .... thought I could rig something up using a brake piston tool ..... but knowing me ...

photo diary is here ... click on 'i' for info ... to see the text with each image ... https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOnWZtgeFau7YRcsLagMR7MQMRgZgxBOvoEpWZNcmU9BUxTUJKVHTwOJut4_AQDcA?key=RVFkaUxBdzNGajdQYTNWRlNHeFNKcGlOMW9lVU5n

Well I spent this weekend getting the head on ...... pain in the arse getting the head to sit on the alignment plugs ... fingers crossed the head surface didn't get too scratched up !?!?!? cams in, cover on, exhaust on, themostat on (not sure about torque value) ...... ..... now waiting for...

Anyone got info concerning the thermostat housing torque setting ??? At first, I thought to use the same as the water pump, but there the bolts are into steel, whereas the thermostat is on the Al. head .... for now I've used same value as the cam cover, so only 12Nm but would like to know if...

Progress … the head is on … albeit a bit of a fight to get it to sit on the locating plugs ….. just hope the head surface was not scrapped up too much ….. cams in and cover on ….. thermostat housing on and exhaust attached too ….. but struggling BIG TIME with the water pump ….. getting the old...

p.s. sorry if I'm a bit 'short' .. had a bottle of wine to myself while thinking about it ..... WTF! have a nice day :)

locking pin has no screw ..... the one with the screw seems to be too long .... only screws in, in non TDC points x2 ... caused some issues today! ... crankshaft PULLEY is off ...it's the crankshaft cog or pinon that the cambelt runs on that I can not get off ..... and since there is a locking...

OK….after turning the engine and checking every blocking point …. it seems I was using the wrong locking pin!!!!! (too long one) ARSE!!! ….. Now I have only one solid blocking point that corresponds pistons 1 & 4 at TDC!!! …. The fact that the crankshaft piñon/cog does not come off ….. well I...

Furthermore ….. The crankshaft piñon does not want to come off which worries me ….. obviously the bolt has been removed !!! So it's difficult to verify the TDC as I can not see the piñon key/slot ….. will take a picture ….

Hello, so the drama has begun ….. I thought I would checkout a few things before putting too much together ….. more space to get at the water pump without the head on (for example) and TDC should be more obvious because I can see the pistons ….. hmmmm well it seems as though there are TWO TDC...

one evening done sorting all the nuts and bolts and matching them up to each interface …… what should I do with the ones I have left over ??