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Having been through the F4R manual I noticed this:-
The solenoid valve is closed at rest. It authorises
the passage of oil to control the phase shifter in
line with the operation of the engine:
- if the engine speed is between 1,800 and
6,500 rpm,
- if the throttle potentiometer is not at...
I will do if its not too much, otherwise I can have one made up.
I did what would be most effective for the least investment.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?682060-Ph1-172/page12
Look for a special FRS that's been looked after and money spent on it already.
I'd have this over an 335i any day
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=425778
Re: Ph1 172
Dropped it off at a friend's garage to fit the cup subframe and 7.5mm rear spacers to replace the 10mm -1mm camber spacers.
I'd have done it but...I cba :P
I need to order some aerocatches for the front bumper this weekend and I'm having the group buy door cards off @Kelv on Friday.
Re: Ph1 172
Nice and responsive, pulled well from low down.
Now I've got the filter setup all sorted the idle is solid around 900rpm. Just need to tweak the cold start so I don't have to hold it on the throttle for a few seconds to get it idling.
Can't wait to have it all finished and abuse...
If I didn't do 700+ miles a week I'd have one of these as a daily but I'd keep the ph1 for track.
It would have to have the cup chassis though, the one I drove felt great! But I think I'd prefer the 17s to 18s.
They do look good in white, it suits it more than the other colors I think.
Re: Ph1 172
Mine is only 35 degrees against 90 in that article, and it didn't have much effect.
I ran one on my old car, it went from 190 down to 167! That was a pipercross one with 100mm entry
Re: Ph1 172
Based on this... http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/dec2012/ it shouldn't be an issue, especially as I've done the clamps as tight as possible to squash the silicon over the lip.
The extra 70mm length should more than make up for anything.