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I use Federal RSR on road and track, saves having multiple sets of wheels. They're great in the wet and dry and cheap to replace. I was considering other tyres but they cost over double what the RSR cost.
The kit comes with bigger injectors iirc.
One of the better boost solenoids is the Sierra Cosworth amal valve imo.
Depending how the boost comes in and how big the peak is on the torque curve you might not need to do anything.
My setup is now AST sportline 1s with 400lb front and 285lb rear. Can't fault it on the road. I had cooksport springs before and the ASTs are another level. Good ride which is firm but not crashy but a very noticeable reduction in roll. I need to get it on track and see how much better it is...
Three days after getting it all back together I had more bad luck...fresh gearbox oil down the road and on the driveway coming from the O/S gearbox seal.
So upon investigation it turns out the driveshaft end section had shifted slightly and moved closer to the seal then worn away the outer lip...
SO glad it all worked out for you Scott, must be great having it back :D
The power/torque starting to drop off around 6400 is the standard inlet being in choke, mine did exactly the same except it dropped off a bit more but that's because of the cams not being quite as lairy as 421s.
I've...
Measured the shafts before fitting. Fully compressed a ph1 shaft is 730mm. The two piece is 750mm and the cup is 750mm.
I've got a cup subframe and the roll centre kit so I need the longer shafts otherwise the car won't go! The fact it's a ph2 shaft on a ph1 isn't the issue. I've got the right...
Just fit a Bosch 4 bar pressure regulator. More flow (enough for my 207bhp anyway) and better fuel atomisation. Better solution for you than changing the injectors.
How did you find your Bilstein btw?
On Sunday I got my car back together with the new genuine Renault shafts. It's been fine since, in fact its been brilliant, absolutely love the car now its on ASTs and the roll centre correction kit.
Last night the gearbox oil started leaking, I'd heard a slight clunk on the way home and...
Yes the spigots are critical for centering the wheel but dependant on the vehicle itself (how sensitive it is due to geometry etc.), centreing capability of the wheels bolts/nuts and the torquing sequence the centreing of the wheel is a variable.
They take no load. Think of it as a bolted joint...
You don't have to have the original shaft. Yeah that's it, splined bar. If you know what overall length you need including the CVs then just send the CVs.
Yes they were :)
They do 10" http://www.hmsraceparts.com/Eibach-1-9-ID-10-Length-Springs/
I could go stiffer all round but it's so composed and comfy on the road whilst having minimal roll I don't know if I'd want to. Joe is running the same rates as me IIRC
You'd be surprised how strong some...
If you can supply CV joints I can get shafts done for £60 per side. EN24 Steel tested to 1200bhp on a drag spec Escos among other things.
They made me a custom equal length shaft for my Mk2 Fiesta, they've done MTX conversion shafts for Mk1 and 2 Fiesta as well.
You've got Eibach springs on yours whereas mine are AST springs (same colour paint as the Cooksport springs funny enough :P so I wouldn't be surprised if the planned Cooksport coilovers have something to do with AST one way or another) so my guess would be that Eibach didn't make a suitable free...
I'd do a full steering and suspension refresh. New oe bushes, track rods, rod ends, wishbones, ball joints (you get these with the wishbones). Maybe some coilovers (Gaz on a budget or Bilstein if not) and then the ktec exhaust.
Wouldn't bother with the splitter, just another thing to catch. Leave it original although clear side repeaters and silvertec bulbs are ok.
As for an exhaust I'd get a ktec stealth (not the supersport version)