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probably as above.job is easier just to lift out the engine and then swap the box.would give you a price for me to do it but my engine cranes knackered.

had one on my 309 and cav.average fit but sounded great.

any friction material isnt covered after the first year as this is regarded as wear and tear like brake pads.any other clutch parts other than the release bearing are warranty for all 3 years.

doubt you need anything extra on a first service.you get the odd one thats been driven hard that wants front brake pads though.

the part that joins the rack.push your finger into the gaitor near where the track arm pivots and you will feel the axial joint(ball and socket style joint).rock the wheel sideways and you can feel the play with your finger if there is any.

had a few at work where the metal ecu cover rubs through the loom.there was a renault recall about this once.

pm lunner.

track arms is the next commen thing.

that wasnt a bad price.most of ours have come to well over a grand.

around 750-800rpm.the dash rev counter isnt nes that accurate.

cheap as chips,ill get a price.

no mate had a few before where the aux belts come off and gone into the cambelt.most times it makes the cambelt come off as well and bends all the valves.least its warranty though as repairs are expensive.

n/s means the side closest to the kerb and also means the passenger side.

check your bottem balljoints but its most likely play in the track arm or track rod end.

yes thats possible but its warranty isnt it anyway?

if its got abs then dont let the system run completly dry of brake fluid and turn the ing on.if you do the abs block does a self test and draws air out of the brake pipes and into the block.virtually impossible to get air out of the hydraulic block on older models.

washer bottle filler is in the n/s side scuttle panel trim.engine coolant bottle is bolted to the bulkhead on the n/s.the dash indicators arent that accurate so i check my oil with the dipstick every week.just top it up with some quality oil until the service is due.

sounds like youve lost all/some of your fluid due to a leak somewhere.

im sure there is a few people on here with this cat.im considering it myself.

the coil pack wont nes put a fault up in the computer memory.the computer wont nes log a misfire either if its very erratic and not a complete failure on one cylinder.you can do resistance checks across the coil pack terminals but with the fault being int then that might not show...

on the top of the gearbox bell housing near the engine.it sits in a cut out and you can see the flywheel.held on by two 10m bolts.

possible faulty idle valve.normal idle speed 600rpm-thats a bit low anyway.

keeps blowing the fuse does it.there must be a short circuit in the fuel pump,relay or the wiring.

the xenons are standard spec.renault should fit the xenons or replace the car.

pm me your reg rich so i can get all the details i need and i will get you part numbers and prices for the cup manifolds.i need the reg of a mk1 to get you the part numbers for that(although i could get a rough price).so far all the part numbers for the cup racer parts that i have got have come...

the scuttle panel which that trim covers up is designed to have water in it(the sunroof drains empty into it etc) so the seal isnt essential as any water that gets past it will just drain out of the scuttle panel drains.just get in looked at when you next visit your dealer.

check your disc condition as well(front and rear)

it applies to every phase 2 172 and cup.there is a ti note(these notes are for the uk only) and an actis solution(actis avaliable to all dealer networks).they both explain the mod in your post.

the only way you could check the fuel is by piping in an in line pressure gauge to the fuel pipe before the rail and checking the pressure.you should have a constant pressure of about 3.5bars under all rev and throttle conditions.it doesnt have a regulator dependant on manifold pressure so thats...

i think it cost my mate £150 for the bonnet.