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@Mash. I have a sump on a dead engine you're welcome to if you remove it.

Yep, i always swap for a hex bolt when i put them back. Re: bracket. If it's a std Ph1 bracket, then it comes off without the PAS pump needing to be touched. Few bolts into the lower inlet. One awkward 16mm by the upper engine mount, aux tensioner(which is done already) and a nut and bolt onto...

Yep, check the door sensors then IMO. Sounds like they're not plugged in/not working IMO.

I think you'll find it too high if your buckets are mounted low TBH. Need to make up some longer bolts/spacers to drop the column for the wheel to be the right height for me,.

Sabelt FTW. Everytime i drive one with a standard wheel i feel like this: Which to scale, isn't far wrong before Cub pipes up.

Sounds like a door sensor might be playing up - the auto lock should only work if you unlock, but don't open any of the doors/boot, or when you go over 9/10mph if you set it.. Does the interior light activate on the door opening?

Hahah. Holy thread bump, Batman!

I've made an offer, you've not taken it (yet). x

Remove the shims when you fit them and they'll be alright. I've never had a set squeal.

Rears - leave them alone, They don't do anything. Fronts - DS2500 pads on standard discs

Nothing. For road use, you're all good. I don't like Cooksports on the road TBH. Prolines suit B-roads better for me. If you get into track days, you'll end up with coilovers, but will suffer road wise.

On a 1.2, Eibach Sportlines all the way.

From how they're all bunched up, pretty sure they're not sportlines. I could be wrong, and it's a very quick/cheap thing to change/improve. (:

What are those rear springs? Look to be doing absolutely nothing. Car looks great mate!

Brake load bias sensor. All in all, ignore it.

Doesn't matter sadly - any rapid drop of pressure can cause issues.

A lot of times, the lack of oil pressure is enough to cause damage. Might be lucky though. I'd change the sump, fill with oil again and hope you've been lucky.

Zamir FTW.

Cheers to this thread. Also saved me 50%.

Next mod you need is a set of Ph1 172 projector headlights. Freshens up the front end lots IMO:

Wheels like biscuits. Love it.

Yep, can either unbolt the 2x 18mm bolts for the ball joint. Or, you can get the driveshaft out by unbolting the track rod end and twisting it that way, Equally, you can setup camber bolts to be pretty damn close with an iphone spirit level app.

7040 From here, for anybody who searches this thread in the future: http://projects.bonxy.net/radio/?p=cliosport&key=h98w49bn9trwn0948bwtbs (:

Man up, Jessie. ;) (Stick a lump of rag on the inlet and you'll be able to move it no problems..)

Firstly, loosen the 4x 16mm bolts on the upper engine mount, and pull the engine towards you. Nip the bolts up again.

2.0 ones won't fit unless you're changing the hubs to 1*2 ones to suit. Also, your 1.2 engine won't weigh as much as the 2.0. TBH, i wouldn't bother spending that kind of money on a 1.2. Save the money until you can buy something faster. IMO.

No, but to add one all he has to do is right click and insert.

We're not close enough for me to be spouting off just yet. (;

Nope, i've never snapped/damaged a set in removing them. They come undone lovely. Old bolts are absolutely fine to reuse.

If you'd have sold this 8 weeks ago, my mate would now be £10k lighter, that's for sure.