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It's the Renault equivalent of "have you tried turning it off and on again"

It's gonna need plugging in really to find out what's going on. Have you tried locking and unlocking again? It's not imob related as the car is allowing you to spin it over so its more likely to be something daft like a fuse to a circuit or a main power relay. Mick

Cheap leads/coil pack? They should "click" in to place really.

Cable ties are common "fixes" on Renault driveshafts but they rarely hold. As above, use a decent jubilee clip but I prefer the proper steel bands (granted though, not an on the driveway/DIY application)

Electrical Fault Light... Check fuses and all connections to the battery first. What else did you do (why did you remove the battery)? Mick

Some aftermarket cams do require some modification to the cylinder head casting to allow them room to rotate... I stress *some* and it tends to e the slightly wilder profiles. Check the manufacturers website chap. Mick

Josh/Kat at Renparts Lyndz... They will get you one. Mick

I still can't believe how well this car looks considering how sorry it looked when it came in for belts. It really is a credit to you mate.

Normally yes, if you have the wiring the infrastructure is there but it's not a cast iron rule and different equipment needs different hardware to make it work. Ideally it needs diagnostics to be able to see what the controllers are seeing (in the case the UCH and ECU)

Looks about right to me chap. As above though there's normally a ring that helps.

You can find out what level UCH you have by looking at the sticker on it. CLIP can only tell the hardware what to do If it is capable however I don't believe an N2 can run cruise control though. It could turn out that the problem is withy the dash loom also not having the lines from the wheel...

What UCH have you got on your car, N2 or N3? I suspect that the UCH needs configuring but a quick session on CLIP will confirm or deny this as well as rule out button faults. Mick

Nope, take it back and put your old coil back on.

Then it's most likely load related rather than a timing issue. Diagnostics needed really but I suspect a MAP sensor issue.

Direct injection mate, its bloody brilliant for fuel consumption (when it works). VAG and BMW have perfected what the French struggled to do with the IDE's

Does it rev freely when it's not moving?

I assume its properly warmed up? If so, diagnostics. Mick

My brother has just sold his '07 plate 530 to get one of these (in Red). Looks lovely, sounds epic and shovels torque like a punch to the kidneys from Tyson.

As per the OP's original post he said it happens at speeds of 50-60mph or greater so unlikely to be the brake pedal switch and more likely a faulty reluctor ring on the driveshaft. If it was a pedal switch fault it would be declared or MIL "on" as soon as the system finishes its integrity check...

Fronts from me are £80 per side fitted using 'F.A.G' bearing kits. Rears... Replace the discs with genuine parts as above as they're pressed in as an assembly. Never use cheap bearings as its a false economy. I've never seen them as cheap as £10 though... I wouldn't trust that running a bike...