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Most likely cause is a pencil coil pack fault.

That looks like it may actually be an alien robot so be careful what you say about it

I personally remove them every time on my cars because like to know i have a leak when they develop #becausefrenchcar

Paul @ RS Tuning will sort you out to. Be careful though as those S3000 units have anti-tamper measures so don't let any old billy with a laptop lose.

The rears are the same mate, damper units I mean.

Only the security features are coded. Subfunctions such as lights, indicators, etc will just work when you plug any unit in. For the purposes of testing this will rule out your problem as a fault with your UCH or wiring.

I've had my fair dealings with them you could say LoLz I had a "trader" drop an MTV Clio II on me doing something similar and it did indeed need a new UCH except his saw the hazards flash like it was a light unit at a Happy Hardcore night. I'd plug in another "same spec" UCH though first to...

CLIP won't always tell you exactly what's wrong. Like all diagnostics kit they're only as powerful as the person interpreting the data/information. If you fancy a drive I have a "test" unit that you're more than welcome to try but to me it does sound like a UCH fault. Mick Diamond Motors

Yes!!!

I wasn't sure if it was swarf or not but Danny has it in hand from the sounds of things. With these newer F4 blocks noises like this are normally due to failed AC compressors or bottom pulleys though.

Video diag wins again... Sounds fatal in that first link LoLz

Result

Deffo a cooling circuit fault that. There's no way a stat would make it jump as described if it was faulty. My guess is massive airlock, faulty CTS (unlikely) or head gasket due to incorrect maintenance. Mick

Yes, it unbolted from it... Is that not what we're already saying? The main cable and fuse block are one and the terminal connector is another part. FFS do I need to take pictures and label them?

It's there to act as an anti-surge protection device whilst the starter is in use. Worst case it *could* try to shag your sister or damage the ECU but they are extreme examples.

You could remove it and add your own connector but the fused link is there for a reason. It will work without though. Mick

Nope, it's part of the cable "assembly" which I *believe* is around £48 + vat

The fuse is part of the wiring loom and available only as part of the charge/starter circuit cable. The battery terminal itself is available separately Mick

Get a photo so we're sure we're singing from the same Hyme sheet. Mick

No, the fused link is part of the starter motor wire. The terminal is just that.

They all it a fuse because it is... 120A iirc You need a new battery terminal which can be purchased from Renault. Mick

Paul, seriously... Don't! I know that one day Kirsty and I are gonna get married on top of a mountain, and there's going to be flutes playing and trombones, flowers and garlands of fresh herbs. And we will dance till the sun rises. And then our children will form a family band. And we will...

Light goes on, light goes off = not security/key fault on any modern Renault from 1999 on.

Yeah the washer reservoir is a sneaky bugger in the X65. The PAS reservoir cap is often on TIGHT though so eat your shreddies.

What stays on, the EFL? No, that's nothing to do with the key. Personally, and with all due respect, I think that if you've not done anything and all the fuses have been confirmed as being okay then this will be beyond your ability to fix. Without seeing it/having the ability to test certain...

No it's hydraulic and the reservoir is located on the firewall on the right hand side... Near the coolant reservoir. Mick

I'd check the starter solenoid control +12v wire to. It's not as common as it was but the wire is known to break or corrode at the terminal over time resulting in this very fault. I had this on a 182 this very week and sure enough it had come off... A common Mk1 fault raises its head again.

I wonder if the sub still blows up Evo's and attracts dirty cruise skanks? I'm in!

Not always because its not that simple and you need to know/understand how the system works. If the red light is on solid and then goes off after 2-3secs then the security system is working fine ad the vehicle is authorised to start using that key. I've not read the full thread, why problems...

See others say that to but I've never had problems with them.