Search results

It could just be that the oil level sensor is faulty but you really should check for oil on the physical dipstick before starting the engine. Mick

Something else incorrectly added in translation lol

Fred, I seem to remember the F4 build manual saying the once belt tension had been added the setup should be spun by hand and then, using a pencil or similar, a mark should be added as pictured above... why I never knew because its just not needed. Looks like the tensioner mark wasn't right to...

I'd love the h3 black but not at £360. Anyone found them any cheaper yet #askastupidquestion

Price dependent but yes, interested Mick

Worst "lets try doggin" thread ever boys.

I believe it is under the topics tab in the favorites menu

Sorry, got here a bit too late it seems. The damp can get in at multiple places and cause problems not just under the seats. It is also pretty common for the line to the pre-tensioner unit itself to need replacing after a deployment and the result of not changing the wires is an open or short...

On an iPad I'd just use the regular site unless of course you're accessing it via 3G

The only real gripe I have is with unread/new/updated threads. There really needs to be an obvious notification symbol imo rather than just slightly bolding the title. Im used to it no so its a small gripe but it took a while to get used to.

Just unplug the canister and it will stop the ticking

If it is the canister then no, will be reet

I've moved from iOS to Droid so can't tell you exactly but theres loads more actions and controls in v2.4 on Droid over v1.x I had on iOS

Sticking barrel or worn lock I'd guess. Try a bit of WD40 on the key blade and insert it a fee times. Give it a few trys but whatever you do, don't force it.

Agreed, its a huge improvement over the version I had on my iphone.

That doesn't mean the tyres are s**t though, more like the incline was too much for the car in those conditions. Lower you tyre pressure, turn off TCS/ESP and don't let the tyres spin too much (although sometimes you need a bit of balanced slip)

Its always the Cups that are noticeable to... deffo gonna be the canister.

You will find that most tyres are bad when rolling in snow/ice conditions. Drive to the conditions

Depends on your bolts holding them to your hub. I'd say 80-90Nm to be safe and then check them after a few miles. I'd also say hit the mating face/hub with a serious wire brushing first and then give them a good coast of copper grease to.

Shame Dunc never drives it. Ambergate is like a motorsport time capsule... Some cracking Escorts around there to.

LoL, its a good job I don't charge interest.

There's this one guy, he's ginger and mardy but not too bad lol

You really want someone electrically biased with this issue rather than a jack of all trades garage. Mick

I've only just got the PE2's and the weather at present isn't ideal for pushing the Clio around the back roads but I'll let you know my opinion after Bedford. I normally hate getting involved in these kinds of discussions as tyre choice is too subjective and everyone has differing opinions but...

I run Hankook V12's on my Turinis and I can't sing there praise enough. Just put some Williams Speedlines on for track use and fitted them with some new PE2's and in the wet I'm impressed. Yoko Spec 2's are a great tyre but they wear so fast.

I've seen this a fair few times before, normally fixable like this: Sometimes I can do it without the fire tool. Mick

100% bugger all to do with the key or the induction loop on the ignition barrel if you ask me. The LED's state is solid red which clearly means (and the X65 system operation notes back this up) the key/code is not only being recieved but is being accepted just fine (if it were a code unknown...

I also had one this morning with the generic message "Injection Fault'... now needs x4 new injectors. As before, really needs diagnostics to say exactly what is causing it.

No simple answer I'm afraid and it needs proper diagnostics. Could be something simple or something sinister in afraid. Mick

As above, check the voltage output at the back of the alternator and make sure all power consumers are off (lights, heater blower, radio). Most likely going to be the alternator though.