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I believe the 2Bar should work just fine chap. How did you manage to break it though, Ham fists again?

Exactly that, yes - I believe its a dash top off job though to get to the two connectors on the passenger unit and I always advise you use clip to put the system into work safe mode first but you'd probably get away with just unplugging them.

You can only de-configure airbag components IF they aren't plugged in to the CanBus. The SRS module is self adapting and is always looking at the trigger lines to monitor for changes. If it see's a change that takes something away from the original configuration the MIL is triggered. If...

Just because the ignition is on doesn't mean these items will still work. Steering is hydraulic and needs the engines rotation to drive the high pressure pump. As it's stalled or cut out no rotation so no pump. Similar goes for the brakes... they are servo assisted which requires a vacuume...

Yeah, they're smd leds

There's about 14 various sensors on the engine so if you've soaked any of them take your pick. I can't believe you honestly thought pressure washing an engine bay would be a good idea though... the general rule is Water + electricity = fucked

Sounds like a gem... wanna sell it?

I can't tell if this is serious or troll

The post-CAT sensor is indeed there purely as a monitoring device to check the efficiency of the cars CAT function. It does not have any control over the vehicles fueling as this is all done by the pre-CAT sensor.

Matt, do you mean DCOE style ITB's? What make? If they're the TOCA spec ITB's then I'm most likely in

Without seeing it I think it's unlikely to be entirely down to the UCH as it wouldn't have any bearing on the engines actual running... my guess is a fucked earth/other wiring related issue. Mick

Big ass "panthers" sticker in the back window?

Yeah because scrap yard owners and ebayers never lie do they? Have the unit re-virginised for around £25 or buy another from a car in a scrap yard that you can see has no bag or inertia reel deployments.

Its a borneo1 vehicle so no tech sheet available. I actually miss the simplicity of these vehicles. You're showing an impact listed which is why you can't do anything... its scrap pending the crash data being removed.

I don't do tyres I'm afraid chap but the place that did mine got all four corners in 16" for £65 a corner. I believe retail is about £75 a wheel

I run the V12's to and honestly, despite tyres being a really subjective topic, can say they're brilliant in nearly all environments except serious icy conditions

Failed lol

As above, injector seal will make no difference to engine compression levels on an F4R as they're after the valves. Re-run the dry test and if your results are identical carry out a wet test which will, as also mentioned above, tell you if you have a ring seal or valve sealing issue. How do...

I remember it was said that a 2.0 K16 was impossible and then Judd Power dropped the K20 which was not only a winner but was rumoured to be reliable to. Shame Rover died though as there were some really interesting cars on the cusp of being released including a new C series common rail 2.0 16v...

Sounds like classic CPS failure mate

Drove it... for the first time in two weeks. I love that little French tin

Should be able to yes but he'd need a management that can run VVC also. Fred has pointed out the main issue which would be the injection fuel pump which will need changing/fuel pressure stepping down for use with carbs.

Are you supplying the delete kit? A new waterpump with coolant is £140

Sounds more like a water pump issue to me. Heaters going cold all of a sudden is normally due to air in the matrix or a lack of flow/pressure.

You can run em yes but you'll need an ignition only management system still. I don't know of any Renaults running a carb'd F4R but there's a couple of Volvos I believe.

A flashing MIL means you have a fault that has potential to damage the CAT. Normally its down to a faulty ignition coil or injector... normally. Does the car start and run fine or does it missfire?

Yours?

Off the top of my head I'm afraid I don't know chap but I'll take a look at it for you when I'm back in the workshop tomorrow. Mick

A - front foglight relay B - heated rear sceen relay C - indicator control relay D - one touch window up (drivers) E - one touch window down (drivers) F - not in use G - DRL's Side lights H - DRL's dipped beam J - not in use K - front wiper relay L - rear wiper relay M - not in use N - central...

Imob is part of the MTU and can't be removed... but as the engine is spinning over it rules the imob out. What have you actually "checked" on the various items above?