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Some lovely cars, but really does highlight that as soon as you modify a BMW away from OEM+, they just turn into BradfordMobiles.

Say goodbye to that one.

Super dead alternator was shorting it. New one on and it's running like a dream-o.

Afternoon chaps Changed an alternator on a 182 the other night and turns out the part was a duff. Started smoking and eventually gave up life. Since then, car won't start on another known working battery. When connected to another running car, the jump leads get red hot and the alternator...

No, it's not. Even worse a time if you mention it without pics FFS.

Still would, just to tell my mayss

Don't give him an excuse for anymore tarty white bits.

Meh. For a road car, nothing wrong with the OE one IMO

Don't tell me you ain't buying no Gluten free bread?!

That's Darwinism.

You local to Surrey? I want to do a test. I'll remove stuff from your car and send you off. You tell me whats gone in weight.

f**king lol at noticing 30kgs missing. In speed? you're joking, surely?

You've noticed more noise. Not more power/speed.

Or lay off the sandwiches. (;

If purely for road use, stick to PS3's. Buying track tyres for looks is like drinking Champagne and lemonade.

No. No. No. No. No. You're a f**king lump anyway, so completely negates the benefits. Put down the fork If you were going racing, it's the obvious choice. As you still need to drive to trackdays in it, you would hate it before long.

Yep, 90' on the longest side i always work with.

Yep, will still be able to move. Genuine parts? Any oil on any of the pulleys?

Tight. Or it'll fall out.

With Coilovers set to hard, not surprising. On OEM shocks, you'd do well to get oversteer without driving like a real knobber

If it's the same as a 172/182, then it's a T50.

Whiteline is everything you need. @imprezaworks is selling one

I'd bet on it being clutch related if there's any squeaking or joltiness. A box will usually whine or crunch, other than that, it won't engage gear. Either where the fork meets the box, release bearing or clutch itself.

You don't need to cut anything, just undo the connectors. You might need to cut some tiny cable ties that hold the wires to the seats.

Have you spotted the lump of iron under the engine mount? That can go! Well worth spending the £12 to join up mate - you'll more than get that back with the technical knowledge, which parts to use and the guides. (: Oh, and if you've not ditched the 16's yet for 15's, get them gone. They drive...

No need to disconnect at all.

1. Yep, under the scuttle on the drivers side is the heater motor. Can be removed if you don't need it. 2. Nope, airbag and service light affect nothing apart from the dash. 3. Yep, nice and simple. Resistors might even turn the light off.

I've repaired a few of these over the years just using regular ring connectors. As above, no issues.

Yep.

The cable should be slack when not in use. In terms of the squeak/jolt, you might be lucky and have it being the cable which will improve if greased, but my bet is it's more likely going to be a box off job to sort that.